All posts by Adam

Damond Motorsports Passenger Side Motor Mount(PSMM) Review

The Damond Motorsports Passenger Side Motor Mount is a replacement for the stock motor mount. I received one of these mounts as part of the Damond beta test, before final release to the public. I’ve had the mount on the car for about 3 weeks now, and have racking up close to 700 miles on it.

The DesignDSC_0157smallerDamond Motorsports PSMM

*Note bushing in photo is backwards, Logo should be facing in towards engine. I’ll be retaking the photos soon.

What makes this mount different from the stock mount is that it flips the bushing from the Vertical plane to horizontal.  This changes how the vibrations from the engine are transferred through the bushing,  to the chassis. This allows you to run a stiffer bushing, yet have it feel like a softer bushing. The bushing in the Damond mount  a 88a durometer polyurethane bushing. Unlike, some of it’s competitors, the mount is also a two piece system, which allows for a further reduction in vibrations, and increased adjustment.


The thought that is on most peoples minds, when they hear about upgraded engine mounts is, vibrations. With any engine mount, that’s stiffer over stock, you’re going to get increased vibrations. This is caused, by the bushing and mount being stiffer, to prevent engine movement. Since the mount is stiffer, those vibrations that once dissipated, through the soft stock mount are now transferred through to the frame, and thus the cabin. The trade off has always been increased engine movement, for a smoother ride, or less engine movement and more vibrations. With the Damond design, the trade off is much more even. You get a mount that decreases engine movement drastically, while minimizing vibrations. Below is some of the testing I did to showcase that fact.

Previous setup:  CP-E Stage 2 Rear Motor Mount, with a JBR 80a Transmissions Side Motor Mount, with a JBR 70a Passenger Side Motor Mount. All mounts have over 10K miles on them

New setup: CP-E Stage 2 Rear Motor Mount, with a JBR 80a Transmissions Side Motor Mount, with a Damond Motorsports Passenger Side Motor Mount. ~700 miles on the Damond mount with 10K miles on the others.

Note for the tests below: The equipment used for these tests was my iphone 6s, using an app. To make the tests as relevant as possible, I kept as many factors as I could the same. Things that were kept the same: Location, gas volume, people in car, climate control/stereo off, phone location, temp, windows, tire pressure. The only direct change I made was switching out the mounts. Although, the testing equipment may not be accurate, the data is still relevant to each other, for comparison. This data though will not be relevant to other vibration tests, done with a different phone or app.

The main thing to note on these graphs is the value of the Z axis.

These 2 graphs are from my old engine mount setup. At a cold start idle, including turning the car on.

JBR cold start 1 JBR Cold Start 2

These 2 graphs are from my new engine mount setup. At a cold start idle, including turning the car on.

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JBR peak: 19.36m/s^2

Damond Peak: 17.38m/s^2

The next is with my car idling at full operating temp, and oil at 180-185 degrees. The left is the JBR mount and Right is the Damond.

JBR idle full tempDamond idle full temp

JBR peak: 12.18m/s^2

Damon peak: 11.34m/s^2

The last set of graphs is again with the car at full temp, with oil at 180-185 degrees. This time I had the AC on, with the AC temp at low, to maximize the compressor. The left is the JBR mount and Right is the Damond.

JBR full temp idle with ac on lowDamond Idle full temp ac low

JBR peak: 14.97m/s^2

Damond peak: 13.05m/s^2


So now that you’ve looked over all the graphs you’re probably thinking, what does this all mean, and how is it relevant. The numbers show a consistent decrease in vibrations with the Damond mount installed over the JBR mount. The numbers don’t show a huge difference, but it is a difference you can feel. Which is the most important part. This verifies the fact that there is a difference in vibrations and it’s not just caused by a placebo effect of having a new part. Another thing to note is my JBR mount is the softest of the bushing available by JBR, and is softer than the TurboTechRacing(TTR) mounts as well. This mount also has over 10,000 miles on it, while my Damond only has ~700. With polyurethane bushing, it takes time to break them in. Going from experience and from people with other mounts, most believe the break-in period for mounts are around as follows. The first noticeable break in, occurs around 100-200 miles, then again at around 1-2k miles, with them finally being fully broken in at 5k. These break-in points will vary depending on how the car is driven.

To show that here is the first startup on the Damond mount, engine still warm.

Damond first start up

You can see it had a peak of 15.54m?s^2 compare that to the warm idle after ~700miles( 11.34m/s^2), you can see that the mount has already started to break in. I suspect that if I perform this test again after a few thousand miles, that the idle vibration would be lower than it is now.


I tried taking these graphs while driving, but the unknown variables became to great, to keep them comparable. Things like, RPM, Speed, Gear, Road, Lane, Throttle, Cars around, Shift, etc, just made the results unreliable.  I can say though, that vibrations while driving are also down. The reduction is vibrations is just as noticeable, if not more, than the idle vibration difference. Previously, with my JBR setup I would get random intense vibrations on deceleration between 3200-3000 rpm. It is believed, that this is caused by the dual mass OEM fly wheel. Reason for that is friends who are running a light weight wheel, no longer experience this issue. With the Damond now installed, I still get these vibration spikes sometimes, but the vibrations are significantly less.

Many people install the rear mount and fear that the same increase in vibrations they got from the rear mount will be applied with the installation of the upper mounts; that’s not the case. The majority of the vibrations come from the rear engine mount. Adding the upper mounts increases vibrations significantly less than a rear mount does.


With aftermarket motor mounts, you’ll get increased engine noise. Some mounts increase the noise level more than others.

Again in keeping with data relevance, the same testing conditions were used for these tests, as the tests above. These tests were done at full temp, idle.

My car is running a GTX2860, with MBRP high flow catted downpipe, and FWSerks Stealth exhaust.

The left is JBR the right is Damond.

JBR db reading Damond db reading

To read the graph, the Max value is the maximum decibel recorded, the middle value under play, is the current level, and the right digit is the peak.

The graph shows that the peak db went down when switching to the Damond. In the graph you can see the spike where the 86db was heard. Whereas, the rest of the graph is roughly the same. This spike could be an abnormality, but from having the mounts in the car for the last 10K I can say that random noise/vibration spikes were normal.

I can not say how much cabin noise was increased over stock mounts, as I do not have a test with stock mounts installed, with the same mods, so it wouldn’t be relevant. Although, the idle test doesn’t show a change in decibel volume at idle, while driving the car is quieter. Again, I came across the same issues I had while trying to do a vibration test while driving, there was to many uncontrollable variables.  I can not say by how much, but it is a noticeable difference.

The Ride

So now that we’ve gone through all the changes of increased vibrations and cabin noise, how does this mount make the car handle and feel. To put it bluntly, awesome.

Having the passenger engine mount installed along with the rear engine mount, keeps the engine from moving around. Most people reading this probably already have a rear engine mount and weighing whether or not it is worth upgrading the upper mounts as well. With the upgraded rear mount, itstiffened up 1 of the 3 mounts of the car, helping to alleviate the engine pitching on you. The upper mounts take that same concept but apply it not just to pitch but roll as well. The engine now doesn’t move forward, back, or side to side.

How does this help you, though? When accelerating hard the engine doesn’t shift, meaning there isn’t a weight shift, as the engine moves backwards. This means better traction and no wheel hop. The increased traction is especially noticeable during hard launches, you’re able to get more power to the ground, and thus accelerate quicker.

The same does for braking. When you break hard, without upper mounts the engine is going to roll forward. The rear mount can’t apply enough force to the engine to fully prevent this, as the rear mount is mounted down low. The engine not rolling forward, again means no weight shifting around, and the weight stays over your front wheels, giving you better braking. Your car stays planted more during hard braking in turn, increasing your braking efficiency.

The last motion upper engine mounts affect is roll. Your engine now, is unable to shift from side to side. When going into a corner your turn in, is much more stable and predictable. You’ll be able to go into a corner, with much more certainty as you don’t have a few hundred pounds of weight shifting on you.

The Damond mount accomplishes all of these things perfectly. The engine stays nicely planted regardless of the type of driving your doing. Last weekend at autocross the car felt as stable as ever, with no sudden weight shifts. As I stated above, I previously had the JBR 70a PSMM installed, coming from that mount to the Damond, the engine feels more planted, with less movement.


To summarize everything up, the Damond mount is able to minimize engine movement to the same effect, if not more than it’s competitors, while providing less cabin vibrations.

Make sure to check out Damond Motorsports to pick up one of these mounts.

Focus ST Intake Manifold Removal How-To

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The purpose of this guide, is to provide you with a step by step detailed guide on how to remove the intake manifold off of a 13-16 Ford Focus ST.


10mm socket

Matching Ratchet

Socket extension, preferably 6 inch

Flat head screwdriver or 8mm socket.


Terminology Reference Guide:

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  1. Using the 10mm socket and extension, unbolt the 5 bolts in-between the intake runners that connect the manifold to the head.   2 of the bolts you can’t see in this photo, they are on the back side of the runners.2015-10-31 141.59.44

2. Now you want to remove the 2 electrical clips on the left side of the manifold(passenger side).

The first clip on on the front of the manifold.  Pictured below.

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The next clip is located on the back side of the manifold, it isn’t connected to the manifold, but the fuel rail. To find this one, you can follow the cable from the first clip you undid, as they are on the same cable.

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Here is that same clip from a different angle.

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With those 2 clips undone, untangle the wire from the hard plastic cable going across it, and move it out of the way. Cable looks like this once removed.

2015-10-31 15.02.50NOTE: when reconnecting the Orange clip goes into the back, and the Gray clips into the front of the manifold.

3.  Undo the clips holding the hard line across the manifold. After removing the clips, maneuver the hose back and out of the way.

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4. Remove the 2 slide on clips on the back side of the manifold, One on the left side and one on the right side.

Clip on the Driver Side:

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Clip on Passenger Side:

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NOTE: these clips can be a bit tricky to remove. They remove by being slid out, away from the engine. You are not uncliping the clip. The clip/wire is mounted to the back of the manifold, you are removing the mount so the clip and wire, can hang loose. The best way to remove these is to hold onto the clip, and try to keep it flat as you pull it straight out.

5. Remove the Cold Charge pipe coupler from the manifold.  Using your screw driver or 8mm socket, loosen this hose clamp. You get to it from the Driver side of the manifold, located just below the sound symposer. Loosen this up quite a bit, but without separating the clamp.

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6. Lift the intake manifold out of the car.  The throttle body has ridges on it, to ensure a good seal to the hose, so it can be hard to remove. To pull it out, you want to reach down on the driver side of the manifold and take a hold of the charge pipe. Then pull up on the manifold, while pulling down on the charge pipe. It may help to wiggle the manifold back and forth.  Once it comes out do not continue to pull, as there are 2 more clips that need to be removed first.

7.  Unclip the PCV hose from the manifold. I missed taking a photo of this step, but it is a large clip on the lower back side of the manifold.

8. Remove the clip on the bottom of the throttle body. This can be a bit tricky as you have to this by feel.  This clip has a lock on it. Follow the wire to the clip, then on the bottom of the clip, you’ll feel a little tab, this slides out, towards the wire, this unlocks the clip. Then you can unclip it.

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Here is a photo of the clip removed. The focus of this is to show what the lock tab looks like. This is how it looks when it is unlocked. Sorry it is a bit blurry.2015-10-31 15.12.11

9. Lift the Manifold out.

At this point the manifold will be free except for 1 clip. This last clip is the green one, located on a hard plastic hose on the Passenger side. I do not remove this one, when removing the intake manifold, because the length of hose is long enough that you can place the manifold on your intake or fuse box, bringing it out of the way.

If you do need to remove it, be careful. It is a very easy clip to break. Here’s how you remove it. Again sorry it’s a bit blurry.

Using a small flat head screwdriver, lift the green plastic up on the sides.   Lift up on both sides where the arrows. are. You don’t remove the clip entirely, just lift it up, and slide up. The clip, if you look at, is like a horseshoe. 

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Looks something like this. Note my awesome paint skills 🙂Untitled

If you break one side, don’t worry about it. Plenty of people have broken one side, and haven’t had any issues.


To reinstall, please reform these steps in reverse.

When on the last step, and it comes to bolting the manifold back to the head, you want to start with the middle bolt then work your way out, going side to side. For example: 2015-10-31 141.59.44

TORQUE SPECS: 14.75ft/lbs

TB Performance Adjustable Front Strut Bar Review

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The TB Performance adjustable front strut bar replaces the pressed steel factory bar. Many people have been told that the car is stiff enough and that the stock strut bar is a 3 point system so there is no need to change it. After installing this part and driving a few miles down the road, I knew right away that they were wrong. The stock bar isn’t adequate for this car by any means. Just holding the stock one in my hands I could feel how flimsy it was. You can flex the bar with almost no force. The TB Performance Strut Bar is made of 2 – 5/8-18 steinjager heim joints mated to a 1.5″ .065 steel tube. Which connects to a 2.5″ stud that is 5/8″ thick and rated at around 130,000 psi yield strength. This all translates to a bar that is far stronger than the stock bar, and isn’t going to flex. Due to the strength of this bar, a 3 point system isn’t needed, unlike the stock one. Having the bar be a 3 point would also prevent it from being adjustable like it is now. With the TB Performance Bar you can adjust the height and tension on the bar. The height adjustment is especially handy in our cars as we have so many different intake designs. Assuredly peoples next question is going to be, how does this improve the car, well let’s get to that.
Driving the car for the first time, I could tell right away that the steering is more responsive. The wheel has almost no play in it, and feels tighter. The saying, just point and shoot, comes to mind when describing it. There is no guess work, no play, or hesitation in the wheel, you turn it and the car’s right along there with you. To be able to say this with my car is saying something, as I have just about every upgrade there is suspension wise, so the steering was already pretty solid. Here’s a quick rundown of my setup, to put this into perspective. KWv3 coilovers, JBR 80a Upper Engine Mounts, CP-E stage 2 rear mount, Massive Speed Systems adjustable Endlinks front, TB Performance Traction Bar, Eibach rear sway bar, with Steeda adjustable endlinks, Forgestar 18×9 wheels wrapped in Michelin Pilot Super Sports 255/35/18, Willwood FBDL Front Brakes. I point out the brakes because they are 22lbs lighter than stocks(unsprung weight reduction, yes please). With all of these suspension mods, I could still immediately feel the difference, from the TB Performance Bar. I didn’t need to go out and push the car hard on back roads or take it autocrossing before I knew this bar was a good investment. Of course, that didn’t stop by from doing those things, because race car. Going into a sweeper fast, the car stays planted, with less corner dive. This helped keep the car more stable, and thus power out on the exit quicker. With this increased stiffness, the car has a slight increase in its tendency to under-steer, in extreme cornering. This is to be expected, as the front end is now stiffer. It was less of an increase than I was expecting, though.  The last benefit and to me, arguably one of the most important aspects of this bar, is now the direct access to your struts. As my KW’s have adjustable dampers and rebound, I need access to the top of the struts to make adjustments. Previously, the only options were to drop the strut or drill a hole through the stock bar. Now, I just pop off the grill cover on the cowling and my damper adjustment knob is right there. I could forgo all the other benefits of this bar, and still feel like I spent my money wisely, just for this feature. So now you’ve heard all the good things, and you’ve got to be thinking, well what’s the downside.

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Like with any mod, there’s always a trade off, get something and give something in return. Luckily for this mod, the give is fairly small, and subtle. Steering vibrations have increased a bit. As the bar is stiffer, the vibrations from the strut tower transfer through it more. This vibration increase is subtle, and doesn’t bother me, but it was something I could feel. The next trade off, is the requirement to remove the lower cowling. This means you can’t run the sound symposer(that could probably be chalked up in the win category). What this also means is your AC doesn’t have a separate feed for air, so you’re pulling from the engine bay. I didn’t notice any change in smell, or temperate from my AC unit. The lower cowling isn’t air tight anyway, so removing it probably has a minimal effect on this anyway.

Hope you Enjoyed the review, check back for more reviews. Feel free to reach out with any more questions.

Product Link TB Performance Products

GarageLine Spacers

After Lowering my car with Eibach Pro-Kit springs(see review) I found it necessary to use spacers to remove the very apparent wheel inset. The Garageline spacers a priced very well and come in multiple sizes. I opted for a staggered set, running 15mm on the front and 20mm on the rear.
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garageline spacers

The design of the spacers, means you use the stock hub bolts and the supplied lug nuts to mount the spacers to the axle. You then mount your wheels to the spacers which have either own bolts, using your original lug nuts. This design makes for a simple bolt on upgrade.

Installation Notes
Make sure your hub is clean, as any debris can cause the spacers not to sit flush, thus they’ll wobble. Also, make sure that you properly torque each bolt on the spacer; I’ve had mine come loose. This leads to my main complaint. The supplied lug nuts have a tapered top and the size of the recessed hole makes it very tight to fit your socket in there. These two things combined make it hard to properly torque the bolts as the socket tends to slip off.
Some people have suggested using blue lock-tite on them. I have not tried this, but if they come loose again I will.

Eibach Pro-Kit Lowering Springs

One of the first upgrade I did to my car was springs. I purchased a set of Eibach Pro-Kit springs for my car 2014 Focus ST. What attracted me to these springs was the ride height drop, as this is my daily driver.

The kit lowers the car by 3/4 inch on the front and 1 inch at the back. This gets rid of a good amount of wheel well gap. It isn’t so low that you have to be concerned about space on wider tires and offsets. It did however accent the fact that our stock wheels have a very large offset, 55mm. To correct this I found it necessary to get spacers. The spacers made a huge difference, I’ve gotten way more comments on the look of the car since I’ve put them on. I am currently running GarageLine 15mm Spacers on the front and 20mm spacers on the Rear. Spacer Review

Without Spacers

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With Spacers

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With the modest drop of these springs it allows the car to be lowered but not to the point it became an inconvenience. I have no issues getting in an out of my driveway or going over speed bumps. The ride quality also did not become harsh, as the springs are progressive. This allows the springs to be soft to soak up the small bumps in the roads, but then get stiff quickly when the car starts to lean, such as in a corner. One of the main improvements with the springs is the reduction is nose and tail dive during hard braking or acceleration.
Autocrossing the car regularly the before an after spring install is huge. The car is much more stable under hard braking as the weight is not rolling around. The same goes for the corners. The car also does not have the inner wheel lift on hard corning that the stock springs have, allowing the car to be much more planted and stable.

The only issue I am having is the increased wear on my stock struts. This is due to aftermarket companies not making any struts for the 2014 model as it has a different spring perch on the front than the 2013’s.

Moroso Oil Catch Can Install PCV Side (STAGE 2)

Parts List

(1) Air Oil Separator
(1) Billet Clamp Saddle
(1) Billet Clamp
(1) Stainless Steel Mounting Bracket
(2) Lengths of 3/8” Hose
(1) Square Washer
(1) ¼” Flat Washer
(1) 10-24 x ¾” SHCS
(1) 10-24 Lock Nut
(4) ¼-20 x 5/8” SHCS
(2) Hose Clamps
(2) 90 Degree Barbed Fittings

What you will need:
¼” Ratchet
¼” Extension, 12” long
¼” Extension, 4” long
7mm Socket
8mm Socket
11mm Socket
#30 Torx Bit
11mm Closed End Wrench
Long Flat Head Screwdriver
Jack, Jack Stands or ramps (Stands will give you more room)
Sharp Scissors or Sharp Razor Knife
Teflon Tape


Step 1: Jack up front of vehicle and place on jack stands. Remove belly pan. This step is not necessary, just makes it easier should you drop anything

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Step 3: Remove engine cover.

Step 4: Remove intake from vehicle referring to shop manual as needed.
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The green clips are VERY fragile. Be careful not to break them.
Disconnect the map sensor. Loosen top clamp that secures the intercooler piping to the throttle body. Remove the sound symposer pipe.

*Note: Depending on how the clamp is positioned, you may have to loosen it from the bottom of the car.

Remove the 5 bolts that secure the manifold to the head using a 10mm socket. Disconnect the EVAP line from the retaining clips.
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Move the connector for the MAP sensor over to the left, towards the coolant reservoir so it’s out of the way. Pull the whole intake manifold a few inches towards the radiator, away from the head.

Remove the two connectors that are retained to the back of the manifold. There should be one on each side. Remove the PCV hose from the back of the manifold. Use both hands to reach around the backside of the manifold and use your thumbs to press in on the rigid area and then push the connector away from the manifold to remove it.


Pull the manifold up off of the intercooler piping. It should move somewhat freely now, but you still have two more things to disconnect. Remove the throttle body connector.

Pull the manifold out enough that you can access the connector for the EVAP line. The EVAP connector has two green clips that holds the connector into place. Be VERY careful not to break the clips while removing. After the clips are removed, pull the EVAP line off and set it to the side. Pull the manifold completely out.

^^^ That’s what happens when you’re not careful with removing the clips.

Step 5: Locate and remove PCV assembly from vehicle.

Optionally you can try and simply use a razor blade to cut the hose off of the PCV valve.
(The orange/green connection in the pic)

Step 6: Carefully cut PCV valve from tube. Optionally you can keep the PCV in the car

Step 9: Install hose with clamp as shown. Optionally you can keep the PCV in the car

Step 11: Route hose over to driver’s side of vehicle.

Step 12: Insert barbed fitting into hose with hose clamp.
That fitting is from the backside of the manifold.

Step 13: Reinstall to intake.

Step 14: Reinstall intake.

Step 15: Assemble Air Oil Separator as shown using Teflon Tape on barbed fittings.

As far as mounting goes it can be anywhere that you want it. I recommend somewhere that you can reach your hand easily, and are able to twist the can open. The best place I’ve found is where the symposer used to mount to the battery box, but if you have access to scrap metal or angle iron you can make a
bracket yourself.

Step 16: Assemble billet saddle to stainless steel mounting bracket using (1) 1/4x20x5/8 SHCS, assemble with relief groove facing down.

Step 17: Locate slots in firewall shown on passenger’s side of vehicle.

Step 18: Install ¼-20×5/8 SHCS with washer, thru slot #1 (in firewall) and stainless steel bracket, into billet clamp saddle.

Step 19: Install 10-24×3/4 SHCS thru stainless steel bracket and slot # 2. Install square washer and lock nut , tighten.

Step 20: Insert (2) ¼-20×5/8 SHCS into billet clamp.

Step 21: Install Air Oil Separator with barbed fittings facing front of vehicle, set height @ 1” to 1 1/8” as shown.

Step 22: Route 3/8” hose as shown and wire tie as needed.

Step 23: Install hose to Air Oil Separator.

Step 24: Re-install engine cover.

Step 25: Re-install belly pan.

Installation Complete

Draining of Air Oil Separator is needed; this will depend on driving conditions (i.e.) normal day to day driving check every 1,000 miles until a baseline is established. A good baseline is to drain the Air Oil Separator when it is about HALF full. This will vary with temperatures (cold winters vs. hot summers). For track usage Air Oil Separator will need to be drained after every outing.

Thanks to Moroso for providing the initial instructions. These have been modified slightly as we felt some of the steps were unnecessary.

For Technical Assistance, call Moroso’s Tech Line
(203)-458-0542, 8:30am-5:00pm Eastern Time

How To Install Rotors Focus ST

Installing new rotors is a fairly quick and easy DIY job.

Tools Needed:
Lug nut tool, 19mm socket
7mm allen
13mm socket or wrench
c-clamp or caliper tool

Rear Specific Tools:
Screw in piston caliper tool

1. Remove the wheel.
2. On the front of the caliper there is a clip, that needs to be popped off.
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Clip Removed:
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3. Once this clip is removed there are 2 bolts on the back side of the caliper. They are covered in a black plastic clip. Pop the cap off and undo the two bolts, using a 7mm allen key.

REAR NOTE: I had to undo the rear sway bar and disconnect it from the end links to provide clearance to get the allen key in.

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4. This step is only if you are doing the back brakes, Undo the handbrake cable.

5. Then lift the caliper off and rest it somewhere. Don’t let the caliper hang by the hose.

6. Next you need to remove the brake pads and the mounting bracket. This is held on by two 13mm bolts.
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7. Once this is off you are free to remove the rotor. If it is stuck use a mallet to knock it loose.

8. Then clean the back of the new rotor with brake cleaner and place it on the axle.

9. Perform the steps in reverse to put the caliper back together.

10. You may have to use a c-clamp to push the caliper piston back out to provide clearance over the pads. NOTE FOR THE BACK: The rear piston is a screw in, so you’ll need a special tool.

11. Before putting the wheel back on clean the front of the rotor.

How to install stainless steel brake lines Focus ST

Installing the stainless steel brake lines is much easier than I thought it would be going into it. This job can be done with or without a lift, though it would be quicker on a lift. Procedure is almost identical between front and back.
I went with the Steeda lines as they are DOT certified unlike some other brands. Stoptech also make a great set.
1. Remove wheel.
2. Remove the clip that holds the line to the frame mount. The best way to remove this is with a screwdriver from the back side, pushing forward.
3. Unscrew the nut connecting the lines, using an 11mm wrench. Then separate the lines and cap the end. If a lot of fluid come out before you cap the end, make sure to check the reservoir so it doesn’t drop below min.
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NOTE: Photo is on the installation of the new lines, thus the clip is still on.
4. Next pull the line end out of the mount that holds it to the frame, and the rubber U clamp halfway down the line.
5. How you should have only one connection left, down on the caliper. Undo this bolt with a 14mm and pull the line out.
6. To install the new stainless line, perform the steps in reserve.

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How to Bleed The Clutch

This tutorial will show you how to bleed the clutch on your Ford Focus ST. This procedure should work on the Fiesta ST though the location of the bleed valve for the slave cylinder may be different.

What You’ll Need:
Pressure Bleeder Buy Motive Pressure Bleeder
Bleeder Bottle
11mm Flare Wrench Buy Flare wrench
T20 torx
Screw Driver
10mm socket
Brake Fluid

1. Remove the lower cowling. This step isn’t necessary but it gives you more room, and allows the hose to sit cleaner.

  • 1. Remove the weather strip
  • 2. Unscrew the 2 torx bolts, one on either side of the cowling
  • 3. Undo the 4 clips across the top, using the screwdriver to pry them loose.
  • 4. Remove the 2 plastic grates, and undo the 10mm bolt.
  • 5. Underneith the cowling in the center is the Sound Symposer tube, remove that and pull out the lower cowling

2. Remove your airbox. Undo the rubber connector that connects the airbox to the intake pipe, and the rubber connector in the front of the airbox, that holds the 2 plastic hoses. Then pull the airbox out.

3. Fill the pressure bleeder with brake fluid. Put at least 500mls in, as you need to account for the fluid in the hose, and you don’t want the pump to pull in air.

4. Undo the cap to your reservoir, before attaching the pressure bleeder, I would pump it a litle bit to start pulling fluid into the line. Then connect it to the reservoir, making sure there is no leek.

5. Pressurize the pump to 10psi, don’t go over 15psi.

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6. Attach your Bleeder bottle to your slave reservoir bleeder. It is a black plastic bleeder located on top of your transmission, to the left of your shift linkage.

7. Open up the bleeder value using your flare wrench. NOTE: I had to open it up quite a bit for it to start bleeding.

8. Bleed about 80ml of fluid out, or until you don’t see any bubbles. Making sure to check the pressure on the bleeder, and the fluid in the hose/reservoir.

9. Close the bleeder screw. Making sure not to over tighten as it is plastic.

10. Leaving the Pressure Bleeder connected, wait about 30 seconds to a minute. Then get into the car and pump the clutch 5 times. Then make sure you can shift smoothly into each gear.

11. If the clutch feels good, remove the pressure bleeder, replace the airbox, and lower cowling.


Job Time 20-30 minutes

DIY Short Shifter

I found the stock shifter throw on the ST to be way to long. I added the Mountune Quick Shift, but that wasn’t enough. I didn’t want to spend the money on the FRPP shifter or the Boomba, so I tried my hand at making my own.
DIY Short Shifter Finished
Shifter Side

Tools needed:
Hack Saw
Adjustable Wrench
Die – M12 x 1.25 Purchase link: Century Drill and Tool 97617 High Carbon Steel Metric Hexagon Die, 12.0 by 1.25
1 inch Wrench – You’ll want something large, that you can get good leverage out of
Permanent Marker
Masking/Painters Tape
Tape Measure
Optional: Hose clamp

First remove the shift knob and trim. The shift knob just unscrews (counter clockwise). The trim piece is held in by 4 clips. You can use a trim removal tool to pop it up or you can use your hands and pull up from inside the shift boot.
trim removal
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Then I used the tape and rags and wrapped them around the shift lever and the rest of the assembly. As you thread metal shaving will drop down, this is to help catch them.

Take your tape measure and measure down how far you want to shorten it. I choose to drop it by 1 inch. Then use the marker to make a line at that point, this will be your stop line.

NOTE: The stock threading is 1 inch, so if you are dropping it by an inch or more, you could change the threadings pitch to accommodate a different knob that wasn’t previously compatible with our car.

Next take the die and thread it onto the shifter and bring it down to the bottom.
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Get your adjustable wrench and clamp down on the black plastic portion of the lever. I held on right next to the shifter cable. This is to stabilize the lever and stop it from moving as you thread. My hand in the photo above is holding onto the wrench, which I have under the rags.

Take your 1 inch wrench and place it on the die and start twisting clockwise. Keep twisting until you hit your marker line. I found it helpful every once in a while to do a quarter turn counter-clockwise to release all the shavings. If it gets really hard to thread, back the die all the way off and clean out the threads, you can also spray some WD-40 or thread lube.

Once you hit your mark it is time to cut. Leave the die at the bottom. This way after the cut you can come back up your threads to correct the top, instead of having to start fresh at the top and try to make it line up with your threads.

Measure from the top down to how much you want to cut. This is where I used the hose clamp. Once I got the cut line location, I used the hose clamp to be a guide and marker to help me cut a straight line, though tape would also work here. I just happened to have an extra clamp lying around.

Take your hacksaw and cut. It can be a bit hard to get started as you are cutting through threads.
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My cut wasn’t perfectly straight as it ended up following the thread lines a bit. This turned out not to be an issue.

Take the die and go back up the threads, to the top. I didn’t go straight off. I went till the die was half way off, then went all the way back down and back up again. Just to ensure that the threads were clean.
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At this point you can check to see if your shift knob screws back on. If you did it correctly it should thread right on.

Next you need to shave off the little tab on the back side of the lever. This tab is a guide for the reverse lockout and a stopper for your shift boot top. With the lever being shorter this now gets in the way. (You can see by looking at your shift boot top and see the track that stops half way through. This tab catches and stops you from being able to drop all the way)

I took a dremil and ground it flat. If you don’t have a dremil a file will work.
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Almost done. Now it’s time to adjust the reverse lockout link. I got hold of a smaller one, like what you get with the boomba short shifter. If you don’t have one of those you can simply use a piece of wire to connect the two pieces. It doesn’t have to be rigid as the only action you are doing is lifting up, it will drop on it’s own with gravity and the spring, in the shift knob.
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Once that is done, put the shift reverse lockout, shift boot, and shift knob back on. Test that you can get into all the gears and the reverse lockout functions. If so, clip the trim piece back on and clean up.
Final Cut:
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Project completed.
Total time: 30min-1hour.