Category Archives: DIY

Focus ST Intake Manifold Removal How-To

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The purpose of this guide, is to provide you with a step by step detailed guide on how to remove the intake manifold off of a 13-16 Ford Focus ST.


10mm socket

Matching Ratchet

Socket extension, preferably 6 inch

Flat head screwdriver or 8mm socket.


Terminology Reference Guide:

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  1. Using the 10mm socket and extension, unbolt the 5 bolts in-between the intake runners that connect the manifold to the head.   2 of the bolts you can’t see in this photo, they are on the back side of the runners.2015-10-31 141.59.44

2. Now you want to remove the 2 electrical clips on the left side of the manifold(passenger side).

The first clip on on the front of the manifold.  Pictured below.

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The next clip is located on the back side of the manifold, it isn’t connected to the manifold, but the fuel rail. To find this one, you can follow the cable from the first clip you undid, as they are on the same cable.

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Here is that same clip from a different angle.

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With those 2 clips undone, untangle the wire from the hard plastic cable going across it, and move it out of the way. Cable looks like this once removed.

2015-10-31 15.02.50NOTE: when reconnecting the Orange clip goes into the back, and the Gray clips into the front of the manifold.

3.  Undo the clips holding the hard line across the manifold. After removing the clips, maneuver the hose back and out of the way.

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4. Remove the 2 slide on clips on the back side of the manifold, One on the left side and one on the right side.

Clip on the Driver Side:

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Clip on Passenger Side:

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NOTE: these clips can be a bit tricky to remove. They remove by being slid out, away from the engine. You are not uncliping the clip. The clip/wire is mounted to the back of the manifold, you are removing the mount so the clip and wire, can hang loose. The best way to remove these is to hold onto the clip, and try to keep it flat as you pull it straight out.

5. Remove the Cold Charge pipe coupler from the manifold.  Using your screw driver or 8mm socket, loosen this hose clamp. You get to it from the Driver side of the manifold, located just below the sound symposer. Loosen this up quite a bit, but without separating the clamp.

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6. Lift the intake manifold out of the car.  The throttle body has ridges on it, to ensure a good seal to the hose, so it can be hard to remove. To pull it out, you want to reach down on the driver side of the manifold and take a hold of the charge pipe. Then pull up on the manifold, while pulling down on the charge pipe. It may help to wiggle the manifold back and forth.  Once it comes out do not continue to pull, as there are 2 more clips that need to be removed first.

7.  Unclip the PCV hose from the manifold. I missed taking a photo of this step, but it is a large clip on the lower back side of the manifold.

8. Remove the clip on the bottom of the throttle body. This can be a bit tricky as you have to this by feel.  This clip has a lock on it. Follow the wire to the clip, then on the bottom of the clip, you’ll feel a little tab, this slides out, towards the wire, this unlocks the clip. Then you can unclip it.

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Here is a photo of the clip removed. The focus of this is to show what the lock tab looks like. This is how it looks when it is unlocked. Sorry it is a bit blurry.2015-10-31 15.12.11

9. Lift the Manifold out.

At this point the manifold will be free except for 1 clip. This last clip is the green one, located on a hard plastic hose on the Passenger side. I do not remove this one, when removing the intake manifold, because the length of hose is long enough that you can place the manifold on your intake or fuse box, bringing it out of the way.

If you do need to remove it, be careful. It is a very easy clip to break. Here’s how you remove it. Again sorry it’s a bit blurry.

Using a small flat head screwdriver, lift the green plastic up on the sides.   Lift up on both sides where the arrows. are. You don’t remove the clip entirely, just lift it up, and slide up. The clip, if you look at, is like a horseshoe. 

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Looks something like this. Note my awesome paint skills 🙂Untitled

If you break one side, don’t worry about it. Plenty of people have broken one side, and haven’t had any issues.


To reinstall, please reform these steps in reverse.

When on the last step, and it comes to bolting the manifold back to the head, you want to start with the middle bolt then work your way out, going side to side. For example: 2015-10-31 141.59.44

TORQUE SPECS: 14.75ft/lbs

GarageLine Spacers

After Lowering my car with Eibach Pro-Kit springs(see review) I found it necessary to use spacers to remove the very apparent wheel inset. The Garageline spacers a priced very well and come in multiple sizes. I opted for a staggered set, running 15mm on the front and 20mm on the rear.
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garageline spacers

The design of the spacers, means you use the stock hub bolts and the supplied lug nuts to mount the spacers to the axle. You then mount your wheels to the spacers which have either own bolts, using your original lug nuts. This design makes for a simple bolt on upgrade.

Installation Notes
Make sure your hub is clean, as any debris can cause the spacers not to sit flush, thus they’ll wobble. Also, make sure that you properly torque each bolt on the spacer; I’ve had mine come loose. This leads to my main complaint. The supplied lug nuts have a tapered top and the size of the recessed hole makes it very tight to fit your socket in there. These two things combined make it hard to properly torque the bolts as the socket tends to slip off.
Some people have suggested using blue lock-tite on them. I have not tried this, but if they come loose again I will.

Moroso Oil Catch Can Install PCV Side (STAGE 2)

Parts List

(1) Air Oil Separator
(1) Billet Clamp Saddle
(1) Billet Clamp
(1) Stainless Steel Mounting Bracket
(2) Lengths of 3/8” Hose
(1) Square Washer
(1) ¼” Flat Washer
(1) 10-24 x ¾” SHCS
(1) 10-24 Lock Nut
(4) ¼-20 x 5/8” SHCS
(2) Hose Clamps
(2) 90 Degree Barbed Fittings

What you will need:
¼” Ratchet
¼” Extension, 12” long
¼” Extension, 4” long
7mm Socket
8mm Socket
11mm Socket
#30 Torx Bit
11mm Closed End Wrench
Long Flat Head Screwdriver
Jack, Jack Stands or ramps (Stands will give you more room)
Sharp Scissors or Sharp Razor Knife
Teflon Tape


Step 1: Jack up front of vehicle and place on jack stands. Remove belly pan. This step is not necessary, just makes it easier should you drop anything

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Step 3: Remove engine cover.

Step 4: Remove intake from vehicle referring to shop manual as needed.
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The green clips are VERY fragile. Be careful not to break them.
Disconnect the map sensor. Loosen top clamp that secures the intercooler piping to the throttle body. Remove the sound symposer pipe.

*Note: Depending on how the clamp is positioned, you may have to loosen it from the bottom of the car.

Remove the 5 bolts that secure the manifold to the head using a 10mm socket. Disconnect the EVAP line from the retaining clips.
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Move the connector for the MAP sensor over to the left, towards the coolant reservoir so it’s out of the way. Pull the whole intake manifold a few inches towards the radiator, away from the head.

Remove the two connectors that are retained to the back of the manifold. There should be one on each side. Remove the PCV hose from the back of the manifold. Use both hands to reach around the backside of the manifold and use your thumbs to press in on the rigid area and then push the connector away from the manifold to remove it.


Pull the manifold up off of the intercooler piping. It should move somewhat freely now, but you still have two more things to disconnect. Remove the throttle body connector.

Pull the manifold out enough that you can access the connector for the EVAP line. The EVAP connector has two green clips that holds the connector into place. Be VERY careful not to break the clips while removing. After the clips are removed, pull the EVAP line off and set it to the side. Pull the manifold completely out.

^^^ That’s what happens when you’re not careful with removing the clips.

Step 5: Locate and remove PCV assembly from vehicle.

Optionally you can try and simply use a razor blade to cut the hose off of the PCV valve.
(The orange/green connection in the pic)

Step 6: Carefully cut PCV valve from tube. Optionally you can keep the PCV in the car

Step 9: Install hose with clamp as shown. Optionally you can keep the PCV in the car

Step 11: Route hose over to driver’s side of vehicle.

Step 12: Insert barbed fitting into hose with hose clamp.
That fitting is from the backside of the manifold.

Step 13: Reinstall to intake.

Step 14: Reinstall intake.

Step 15: Assemble Air Oil Separator as shown using Teflon Tape on barbed fittings.

As far as mounting goes it can be anywhere that you want it. I recommend somewhere that you can reach your hand easily, and are able to twist the can open. The best place I’ve found is where the symposer used to mount to the battery box, but if you have access to scrap metal or angle iron you can make a
bracket yourself.

Step 16: Assemble billet saddle to stainless steel mounting bracket using (1) 1/4x20x5/8 SHCS, assemble with relief groove facing down.

Step 17: Locate slots in firewall shown on passenger’s side of vehicle.

Step 18: Install ¼-20×5/8 SHCS with washer, thru slot #1 (in firewall) and stainless steel bracket, into billet clamp saddle.

Step 19: Install 10-24×3/4 SHCS thru stainless steel bracket and slot # 2. Install square washer and lock nut , tighten.

Step 20: Insert (2) ¼-20×5/8 SHCS into billet clamp.

Step 21: Install Air Oil Separator with barbed fittings facing front of vehicle, set height @ 1” to 1 1/8” as shown.

Step 22: Route 3/8” hose as shown and wire tie as needed.

Step 23: Install hose to Air Oil Separator.

Step 24: Re-install engine cover.

Step 25: Re-install belly pan.

Installation Complete

Draining of Air Oil Separator is needed; this will depend on driving conditions (i.e.) normal day to day driving check every 1,000 miles until a baseline is established. A good baseline is to drain the Air Oil Separator when it is about HALF full. This will vary with temperatures (cold winters vs. hot summers). For track usage Air Oil Separator will need to be drained after every outing.

Thanks to Moroso for providing the initial instructions. These have been modified slightly as we felt some of the steps were unnecessary.

For Technical Assistance, call Moroso’s Tech Line
(203)-458-0542, 8:30am-5:00pm Eastern Time

How To Install Rotors Focus ST

Installing new rotors is a fairly quick and easy DIY job.

Tools Needed:
Lug nut tool, 19mm socket
7mm allen
13mm socket or wrench
c-clamp or caliper tool

Rear Specific Tools:
Screw in piston caliper tool

1. Remove the wheel.
2. On the front of the caliper there is a clip, that needs to be popped off.
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Clip Removed:
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3. Once this clip is removed there are 2 bolts on the back side of the caliper. They are covered in a black plastic clip. Pop the cap off and undo the two bolts, using a 7mm allen key.

REAR NOTE: I had to undo the rear sway bar and disconnect it from the end links to provide clearance to get the allen key in.

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4. This step is only if you are doing the back brakes, Undo the handbrake cable.

5. Then lift the caliper off and rest it somewhere. Don’t let the caliper hang by the hose.

6. Next you need to remove the brake pads and the mounting bracket. This is held on by two 13mm bolts.
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7. Once this is off you are free to remove the rotor. If it is stuck use a mallet to knock it loose.

8. Then clean the back of the new rotor with brake cleaner and place it on the axle.

9. Perform the steps in reverse to put the caliper back together.

10. You may have to use a c-clamp to push the caliper piston back out to provide clearance over the pads. NOTE FOR THE BACK: The rear piston is a screw in, so you’ll need a special tool.

11. Before putting the wheel back on clean the front of the rotor.

How to install stainless steel brake lines Focus ST

Installing the stainless steel brake lines is much easier than I thought it would be going into it. This job can be done with or without a lift, though it would be quicker on a lift. Procedure is almost identical between front and back.
I went with the Steeda lines as they are DOT certified unlike some other brands. Stoptech also make a great set.
1. Remove wheel.
2. Remove the clip that holds the line to the frame mount. The best way to remove this is with a screwdriver from the back side, pushing forward.
3. Unscrew the nut connecting the lines, using an 11mm wrench. Then separate the lines and cap the end. If a lot of fluid come out before you cap the end, make sure to check the reservoir so it doesn’t drop below min.
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NOTE: Photo is on the installation of the new lines, thus the clip is still on.
4. Next pull the line end out of the mount that holds it to the frame, and the rubber U clamp halfway down the line.
5. How you should have only one connection left, down on the caliper. Undo this bolt with a 14mm and pull the line out.
6. To install the new stainless line, perform the steps in reserve.

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How to Bleed The Clutch

This tutorial will show you how to bleed the clutch on your Ford Focus ST. This procedure should work on the Fiesta ST though the location of the bleed valve for the slave cylinder may be different.

What You’ll Need:
Pressure Bleeder Buy Motive Pressure Bleeder
Bleeder Bottle
11mm Flare Wrench Buy Flare wrench
T20 torx
Screw Driver
10mm socket
Brake Fluid

1. Remove the lower cowling. This step isn’t necessary but it gives you more room, and allows the hose to sit cleaner.

  • 1. Remove the weather strip
  • 2. Unscrew the 2 torx bolts, one on either side of the cowling
  • 3. Undo the 4 clips across the top, using the screwdriver to pry them loose.
  • 4. Remove the 2 plastic grates, and undo the 10mm bolt.
  • 5. Underneith the cowling in the center is the Sound Symposer tube, remove that and pull out the lower cowling

2. Remove your airbox. Undo the rubber connector that connects the airbox to the intake pipe, and the rubber connector in the front of the airbox, that holds the 2 plastic hoses. Then pull the airbox out.

3. Fill the pressure bleeder with brake fluid. Put at least 500mls in, as you need to account for the fluid in the hose, and you don’t want the pump to pull in air.

4. Undo the cap to your reservoir, before attaching the pressure bleeder, I would pump it a litle bit to start pulling fluid into the line. Then connect it to the reservoir, making sure there is no leek.

5. Pressurize the pump to 10psi, don’t go over 15psi.

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6. Attach your Bleeder bottle to your slave reservoir bleeder. It is a black plastic bleeder located on top of your transmission, to the left of your shift linkage.

7. Open up the bleeder value using your flare wrench. NOTE: I had to open it up quite a bit for it to start bleeding.

8. Bleed about 80ml of fluid out, or until you don’t see any bubbles. Making sure to check the pressure on the bleeder, and the fluid in the hose/reservoir.

9. Close the bleeder screw. Making sure not to over tighten as it is plastic.

10. Leaving the Pressure Bleeder connected, wait about 30 seconds to a minute. Then get into the car and pump the clutch 5 times. Then make sure you can shift smoothly into each gear.

11. If the clutch feels good, remove the pressure bleeder, replace the airbox, and lower cowling.


Job Time 20-30 minutes

DIY Short Shifter

I found the stock shifter throw on the ST to be way to long. I added the Mountune Quick Shift, but that wasn’t enough. I didn’t want to spend the money on the FRPP shifter or the Boomba, so I tried my hand at making my own.
DIY Short Shifter Finished
Shifter Side

Tools needed:
Hack Saw
Adjustable Wrench
Die – M12 x 1.25 Purchase link: Century Drill and Tool 97617 High Carbon Steel Metric Hexagon Die, 12.0 by 1.25
1 inch Wrench – You’ll want something large, that you can get good leverage out of
Permanent Marker
Masking/Painters Tape
Tape Measure
Optional: Hose clamp

First remove the shift knob and trim. The shift knob just unscrews (counter clockwise). The trim piece is held in by 4 clips. You can use a trim removal tool to pop it up or you can use your hands and pull up from inside the shift boot.
trim removal
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Then I used the tape and rags and wrapped them around the shift lever and the rest of the assembly. As you thread metal shaving will drop down, this is to help catch them.

Take your tape measure and measure down how far you want to shorten it. I choose to drop it by 1 inch. Then use the marker to make a line at that point, this will be your stop line.

NOTE: The stock threading is 1 inch, so if you are dropping it by an inch or more, you could change the threadings pitch to accommodate a different knob that wasn’t previously compatible with our car.

Next take the die and thread it onto the shifter and bring it down to the bottom.
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Get your adjustable wrench and clamp down on the black plastic portion of the lever. I held on right next to the shifter cable. This is to stabilize the lever and stop it from moving as you thread. My hand in the photo above is holding onto the wrench, which I have under the rags.

Take your 1 inch wrench and place it on the die and start twisting clockwise. Keep twisting until you hit your marker line. I found it helpful every once in a while to do a quarter turn counter-clockwise to release all the shavings. If it gets really hard to thread, back the die all the way off and clean out the threads, you can also spray some WD-40 or thread lube.

Once you hit your mark it is time to cut. Leave the die at the bottom. This way after the cut you can come back up your threads to correct the top, instead of having to start fresh at the top and try to make it line up with your threads.

Measure from the top down to how much you want to cut. This is where I used the hose clamp. Once I got the cut line location, I used the hose clamp to be a guide and marker to help me cut a straight line, though tape would also work here. I just happened to have an extra clamp lying around.

Take your hacksaw and cut. It can be a bit hard to get started as you are cutting through threads.
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My cut wasn’t perfectly straight as it ended up following the thread lines a bit. This turned out not to be an issue.

Take the die and go back up the threads, to the top. I didn’t go straight off. I went till the die was half way off, then went all the way back down and back up again. Just to ensure that the threads were clean.
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At this point you can check to see if your shift knob screws back on. If you did it correctly it should thread right on.

Next you need to shave off the little tab on the back side of the lever. This tab is a guide for the reverse lockout and a stopper for your shift boot top. With the lever being shorter this now gets in the way. (You can see by looking at your shift boot top and see the track that stops half way through. This tab catches and stops you from being able to drop all the way)

I took a dremil and ground it flat. If you don’t have a dremil a file will work.
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Almost done. Now it’s time to adjust the reverse lockout link. I got hold of a smaller one, like what you get with the boomba short shifter. If you don’t have one of those you can simply use a piece of wire to connect the two pieces. It doesn’t have to be rigid as the only action you are doing is lifting up, it will drop on it’s own with gravity and the spring, in the shift knob.
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Once that is done, put the shift reverse lockout, shift boot, and shift knob back on. Test that you can get into all the gears and the reverse lockout functions. If so, clip the trim piece back on and clean up.
Final Cut:
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Project completed.
Total time: 30min-1hour.

Complete Guide to The Cobb Accessport V3


Go to COBB’s website in the web browser of your choice.
Click the appropriate vehicle tab
Navigate to the appropriate make/model/year of your vehicle and appropriate modifications.
Download the maps you desire by clicking on the [map] link on the far right of the map description.
Make note of where the maps are being downloaded on your computer.


Open the Accessport Manager application on your computer. If you do not have Accessport Manager installed on your computer, you may download it from the Support page on COBB’s website (Click the appropriate vehicle tab)
Plug the Accessport into the computer using a mini USB cable.
In the Accessport Files pane, set the Filter drop-down to All Files.
Click the Search For Maps button in the upper right corner of the Accessport Files pane. This will open the Maps On My Computer pane.
Navigate to the folder that contains the downloaded maps.
Drag and drop the new maps from the Computer pane to the Accessport pane.
The new maps have been added to your Accessport


Plug the Accessport into the OBDII port of your vehicle using the supplied OBDII cable.
Turn the ignition to the ON position.
Navigate to “Tune” using the up and down buttons on the Accessport and click OK.
Navigate to “Change Map” using the up and down buttons on the Accessport and click OK.
Select the map you would like to flash to the ECU from the list of maps displayed and click OK.
Follow on-screen instructions to guide you through the rest of the ECU flashing process.

Flat foot shifting and launch control:

Changing the Gauge Layout:
1. Select the Gauge Screen.
2. Use the up arrow to do to the very top of the page, till the Green Arrow is highlighted. Click OK
3. Scroll through the layout options.

Changing the Gauges:
1. Select the Gauge screen
2. Use the buttons to highlight the gauge you wish to change.
3. Click OK to bring up the options list, and select the gauge you want.

Screen Shot:
The accessport can take screen shots of the current displayed screen. To do this press and hold the CANCEL button for 2 seconds. The screen capture will then be stored on the Accessport and visible in the Accessport Manager.

Setting Datalog Values:
1. Select the Gauge Screen.
2. Use the up bottons to go to the top of the screen, and select the Green Arrow.
3. Select Datalogging.
4. Select the values you wish to log, using the OK button to select/de-select items.

List of recommended values:

From Stratified

Accel. Pedal Pos. Accelerator pedal position (this is direct pedal input before translations)
Actual AFR Wideband front oxygen sensor reading converted from Lambda to AFR
Airflow Mass The calculated airflow through the engine and is used for almost all flow based tables.
Boost Pressure Manifold pressure (relative). This is MAP minus Barometric pressure.
Charge Air Temp. Post intercooler temperature as read before the throttle body.
Coolant Temp. Engine coolant temperature as measured post radiator
Engine RPM Current engine speed.
ETC Angle Actual Electronic throttle control actual angle
FRP Actual Fuel rail pressure actual. This is the high pressure pump.
Ign Corr. Cyl1-4 Ignition timing correction applied to Cylinder 1.
Ign Timing Cyl3 Ignition timing after all compensations for Cylinder 1
Load Actual Engine load actual after all compensations
Lowside FP Actual
LTFT Long Term Fuel Trim
Oct Adj Ratio Lrn Octane adjust ratio learned. -1.0 is HIGH Octane, 1.0 is LOW octane.
Knock Count cyl1-4
Short Term Fuel Trim
Tip Actual Absolute
VCT Actual Absolute
VCT Exhaust Angel Actual
WGDC Actual
WGDC Base Final wastegate duty cycle after compensations * If on big turbo log (c) WGDC Base
WGDC I-term
WGDC P-term
WGDC Y-Factor




from Randy(Mountune, and Raffi(FSWerks)

Value Description:
Accel. Pedal Pos. Accelerator pedal position (this is direct pedal input before translations)
Actual AFR Wideband front oxygen sensor reading converted from Lambda to AFR
Airflow Mass The calculated airflow through the engine and is used for almost all flow based tables.
Boost Pressure Manifold pressure (relative). This is MAP minus Barometric pressure.
Charge Air Temp. Post intercooler temperature as read before the throttle body.
Coolant Temp. Engine coolant temperature as measured post radiator
Engine RPM Current engine speed.
ETC Angle Actual Electronic throttle control actual angle
FRP Actual Fuel rail pressure actual. This is the high pressure pump.
Grill Shutter Cmd Commanded grill shutter duty cycle.
Ign Corr. Cyl1 Ignition timing correction applied to Cylinder 1.
Ign Timing Cyl1 Ignition timing after all compensations for Cylinder 1
Load Actual Engine load actual after all compensations
Oct Adj Ratio Lrn Octane adjust ratio learned. -1.0 is HIGH Octane, 1.0 is LOW octane.
Vehicle Speed Vehicle speed when moving.
WGDC Actual Final wastegate duty cycle after compensations

If you have removed your AGS for any reason please remove the Grill Shutter Cmd from the data logging list and replace it with:

Value Description:
Ign Corr. Cyl4 Ign Corr. Cyl4 – Ignition timing correction applied to Cylinder 4.


FMIC Mesh Lower Grill

This DIY removes the stock plastic slats on your lower grill and replaces it with a mesh grill.
The grill material can be purchased here:

Custom Car Grills

This is the template for the dimensions of the lower grill.

29 9/16″ top edge
32 1/4″ bottom edge
2 5/8″ high.
NOTE: that is height, not side edge length, which is exactly 3″.




Pictured is the Diamond XXL


First you’ll need to remove the front bumper.

Bumper removal video
This is an install video for an Intercooler, simply stop after the bumper is removed.

Then remove the stock slatted grill.
Then using the dimensions listed above cut out your grill.
You can then use zip ties to secure the grill.
Zip ties work great as it allows you to easily remove the grill should it become damaged without leaving permanent marks on the bumper.
Replace front bumper.