(1) Air Oil Separator
(1) Billet Clamp Saddle
(1) Billet Clamp
(1) Stainless Steel Mounting Bracket
(2) Lengths of 3/8” Hose
(1) Square Washer
(1) ¼” Flat Washer
(1) 10-24 x ¾” SHCS
(1) 10-24 Lock Nut
(4) ¼-20 x 5/8” SHCS
(2) Hose Clamps
(2) 90 Degree Barbed Fittings
What you will need:
¼” Extension, 12” long
¼” Extension, 4” long
#30 Torx Bit
11mm Closed End Wrench
Long Flat Head Screwdriver
Jack, Jack Stands or ramps (Stands will give you more room)
Sharp Scissors or Sharp Razor Knife
Step 1: Jack up front of vehicle and place on jack stands. Remove belly pan. This step is not necessary, just makes it easier should you drop anything
Step 3: Remove engine cover.
The green clips are VERY fragile. Be careful not to break them.
Disconnect the map sensor. Loosen top clamp that secures the intercooler piping to the throttle body. Remove the sound symposer pipe.
*Note: Depending on how the clamp is positioned, you may have to loosen it from the bottom of the car.
Move the connector for the MAP sensor over to the left, towards the coolant reservoir so it’s out of the way. Pull the whole intake manifold a few inches towards the radiator, away from the head.
Remove the two connectors that are retained to the back of the manifold. There should be one on each side. Remove the PCV hose from the back of the manifold. Use both hands to reach around the backside of the manifold and use your thumbs to press in on the rigid area and then push the connector away from the manifold to remove it.
Pull the manifold up off of the intercooler piping. It should move somewhat freely now, but you still have two more things to disconnect. Remove the throttle body connector.
Pull the manifold out enough that you can access the connector for the EVAP line. The EVAP connector has two green clips that holds the connector into place. Be VERY careful not to break the clips while removing. After the clips are removed, pull the EVAP line off and set it to the side. Pull the manifold completely out.
Step 5: Locate and remove PCV assembly from vehicle.
Optionally you can try and simply use a razor blade to cut the hose off of the PCV valve.
(The orange/green connection in the pic)
Step 6: Carefully cut PCV valve from tube. Optionally you can keep the PCV in the car
Step 13: Reinstall to intake.
Step 14: Reinstall intake.
As far as mounting goes it can be anywhere that you want it. I recommend somewhere that you can reach your hand easily, and are able to twist the can open. The best place I’ve found is where the symposer used to mount to the battery box, but if you have access to scrap metal or angle iron you can make a
Step 16: Assemble billet saddle to stainless steel mounting bracket using (1) 1/4x20x5/8 SHCS, assemble with relief groove facing down.
Step 18: Install ¼-20×5/8 SHCS with washer, thru slot #1 (in firewall) and stainless steel bracket, into billet clamp saddle.
Step 19: Install 10-24×3/4 SHCS thru stainless steel bracket and slot # 2. Install square washer and lock nut , tighten.
Step 20: Insert (2) ¼-20×5/8 SHCS into billet clamp.
Step 23: Install hose to Air Oil Separator.
Step 24: Re-install engine cover.
Step 25: Re-install belly pan.
Draining of Air Oil Separator is needed; this will depend on driving conditions (i.e.) normal day to day driving check every 1,000 miles until a baseline is established. A good baseline is to drain the Air Oil Separator when it is about HALF full. This will vary with temperatures (cold winters vs. hot summers). For track usage Air Oil Separator will need to be drained after every outing.
Thanks to Moroso for providing the initial instructions. These have been modified slightly as we felt some of the steps were unnecessary.
For Technical Assistance, call Moroso’s Tech Line
(203)-458-0542, 8:30am-5:00pm Eastern Time
MOROSO PERFORMANCE PRODUCTS, INC.
80 CARTER DRIVEGUILFORD, CT 06437