Tag Archives: Focus

Focus ST Intake Manifold Removal How-To

2015-10-31 14.59.44

The purpose of this guide, is to provide you with a step by step detailed guide on how to remove the intake manifold off of a 13-16 Ford Focus ST.

Tools:

10mm socket

Matching Ratchet

Socket extension, preferably 6 inch

Flat head screwdriver or 8mm socket.

 

Terminology Reference Guide:

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Procedure:

  1. Using the 10mm socket and extension, unbolt the 5 bolts in-between the intake runners that connect the manifold to the head.   2 of the bolts you can’t see in this photo, they are on the back side of the runners.2015-10-31 141.59.44

2. Now you want to remove the 2 electrical clips on the left side of the manifold(passenger side).

The first clip on on the front of the manifold.  Pictured below.

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The next clip is located on the back side of the manifold, it isn’t connected to the manifold, but the fuel rail. To find this one, you can follow the cable from the first clip you undid, as they are on the same cable.

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Here is that same clip from a different angle.

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With those 2 clips undone, untangle the wire from the hard plastic cable going across it, and move it out of the way. Cable looks like this once removed.

2015-10-31 15.02.50NOTE: when reconnecting the Orange clip goes into the back, and the Gray clips into the front of the manifold.

3.  Undo the clips holding the hard line across the manifold. After removing the clips, maneuver the hose back and out of the way.

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4. Remove the 2 slide on clips on the back side of the manifold, One on the left side and one on the right side.

Clip on the Driver Side:

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Clip on Passenger Side:

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NOTE: these clips can be a bit tricky to remove. They remove by being slid out, away from the engine. You are not uncliping the clip. The clip/wire is mounted to the back of the manifold, you are removing the mount so the clip and wire, can hang loose. The best way to remove these is to hold onto the clip, and try to keep it flat as you pull it straight out.

5. Remove the Cold Charge pipe coupler from the manifold.  Using your screw driver or 8mm socket, loosen this hose clamp. You get to it from the Driver side of the manifold, located just below the sound symposer. Loosen this up quite a bit, but without separating the clamp.

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6. Lift the intake manifold out of the car.  The throttle body has ridges on it, to ensure a good seal to the hose, so it can be hard to remove. To pull it out, you want to reach down on the driver side of the manifold and take a hold of the charge pipe. Then pull up on the manifold, while pulling down on the charge pipe. It may help to wiggle the manifold back and forth.  Once it comes out do not continue to pull, as there are 2 more clips that need to be removed first.

7.  Unclip the PCV hose from the manifold. I missed taking a photo of this step, but it is a large clip on the lower back side of the manifold.

8. Remove the clip on the bottom of the throttle body. This can be a bit tricky as you have to this by feel.  This clip has a lock on it. Follow the wire to the clip, then on the bottom of the clip, you’ll feel a little tab, this slides out, towards the wire, this unlocks the clip. Then you can unclip it.

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Here is a photo of the clip removed. The focus of this is to show what the lock tab looks like. This is how it looks when it is unlocked. Sorry it is a bit blurry.2015-10-31 15.12.11

9. Lift the Manifold out.

At this point the manifold will be free except for 1 clip. This last clip is the green one, located on a hard plastic hose on the Passenger side. I do not remove this one, when removing the intake manifold, because the length of hose is long enough that you can place the manifold on your intake or fuse box, bringing it out of the way.

If you do need to remove it, be careful. It is a very easy clip to break. Here’s how you remove it. Again sorry it’s a bit blurry.

Using a small flat head screwdriver, lift the green plastic up on the sides.   Lift up on both sides where the arrows. are. You don’t remove the clip entirely, just lift it up, and slide up. The clip, if you look at, is like a horseshoe. 

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Looks something like this. Note my awesome paint skills 🙂Untitled

If you break one side, don’t worry about it. Plenty of people have broken one side, and haven’t had any issues.

 

To reinstall, please reform these steps in reverse.

When on the last step, and it comes to bolting the manifold back to the head, you want to start with the middle bolt then work your way out, going side to side. For example: 2015-10-31 141.59.44

TORQUE SPECS: 14.75ft/lbs

Moroso Oil Catch Can Install PCV Side (STAGE 2)

Parts List

(1) Air Oil Separator
(1) Billet Clamp Saddle
(1) Billet Clamp
(1) Stainless Steel Mounting Bracket
(2) Lengths of 3/8” Hose
(1) Square Washer
(1) ¼” Flat Washer
(1) 10-24 x ¾” SHCS
(1) 10-24 Lock Nut
(4) ¼-20 x 5/8” SHCS
(2) Hose Clamps
(2) 90 Degree Barbed Fittings

What you will need:
¼” Ratchet
¼” Extension, 12” long
¼” Extension, 4” long
7mm Socket
8mm Socket
11mm Socket
#30 Torx Bit
11mm Closed End Wrench
Long Flat Head Screwdriver
Jack, Jack Stands or ramps (Stands will give you more room)
Sharp Scissors or Sharp Razor Knife
Teflon Tape

Procedure:

Step 1: Jack up front of vehicle and place on jack stands. Remove belly pan. This step is not necessary, just makes it easier should you drop anything

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Step 3: Remove engine cover.

Step 4: Remove intake from vehicle referring to shop manual as needed.
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2014-09-28 13.48.15

The green clips are VERY fragile. Be careful not to break them.
Disconnect the map sensor. Loosen top clamp that secures the intercooler piping to the throttle body. Remove the sound symposer pipe.

*Note: Depending on how the clamp is positioned, you may have to loosen it from the bottom of the car.

Remove the 5 bolts that secure the manifold to the head using a 10mm socket. Disconnect the EVAP line from the retaining clips.
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Move the connector for the MAP sensor over to the left, towards the coolant reservoir so it’s out of the way. Pull the whole intake manifold a few inches towards the radiator, away from the head.

Remove the two connectors that are retained to the back of the manifold. There should be one on each side. Remove the PCV hose from the back of the manifold. Use both hands to reach around the backside of the manifold and use your thumbs to press in on the rigid area and then push the connector away from the manifold to remove it.

________________________________________

Pull the manifold up off of the intercooler piping. It should move somewhat freely now, but you still have two more things to disconnect. Remove the throttle body connector.

Pull the manifold out enough that you can access the connector for the EVAP line. The EVAP connector has two green clips that holds the connector into place. Be VERY careful not to break the clips while removing. After the clips are removed, pull the EVAP line off and set it to the side. Pull the manifold completely out.



^^^ That’s what happens when you’re not careful with removing the clips.

Step 5: Locate and remove PCV assembly from vehicle.

Optionally you can try and simply use a razor blade to cut the hose off of the PCV valve.
(The orange/green connection in the pic)

Step 6: Carefully cut PCV valve from tube. Optionally you can keep the PCV in the car


Step 9: Install hose with clamp as shown. Optionally you can keep the PCV in the car

Step 11: Route hose over to driver’s side of vehicle.

Step 12: Insert barbed fitting into hose with hose clamp.
That fitting is from the backside of the manifold.

Step 13: Reinstall to intake.

Step 14: Reinstall intake.

Step 15: Assemble Air Oil Separator as shown using Teflon Tape on barbed fittings.

As far as mounting goes it can be anywhere that you want it. I recommend somewhere that you can reach your hand easily, and are able to twist the can open. The best place I’ve found is where the symposer used to mount to the battery box, but if you have access to scrap metal or angle iron you can make a
bracket yourself.

Step 16: Assemble billet saddle to stainless steel mounting bracket using (1) 1/4x20x5/8 SHCS, assemble with relief groove facing down.


Step 17: Locate slots in firewall shown on passenger’s side of vehicle.

Step 18: Install ¼-20×5/8 SHCS with washer, thru slot #1 (in firewall) and stainless steel bracket, into billet clamp saddle.

Step 19: Install 10-24×3/4 SHCS thru stainless steel bracket and slot # 2. Install square washer and lock nut , tighten.

Step 20: Insert (2) ¼-20×5/8 SHCS into billet clamp.

Step 21: Install Air Oil Separator with barbed fittings facing front of vehicle, set height @ 1” to 1 1/8” as shown.

Step 22: Route 3/8” hose as shown and wire tie as needed.

Step 23: Install hose to Air Oil Separator.

Step 24: Re-install engine cover.

Step 25: Re-install belly pan.

Installation Complete

Maintenance:
Draining of Air Oil Separator is needed; this will depend on driving conditions (i.e.) normal day to day driving check every 1,000 miles until a baseline is established. A good baseline is to drain the Air Oil Separator when it is about HALF full. This will vary with temperatures (cold winters vs. hot summers). For track usage Air Oil Separator will need to be drained after every outing.

Thanks to Moroso for providing the initial instructions. These have been modified slightly as we felt some of the steps were unnecessary.

For Technical Assistance, call Moroso’s Tech Line
(203)-458-0542, 8:30am-5:00pm Eastern Time
MOROSO PERFORMANCE PRODUCTS, INC.
80 CARTER DRIVEGUILFORD, CT 06437
www.moroso.com

How to Bleed The Clutch

This tutorial will show you how to bleed the clutch on your Ford Focus ST. This procedure should work on the Fiesta ST though the location of the bleed valve for the slave cylinder may be different.

What You’ll Need:
Pressure Bleeder Buy Motive Pressure Bleeder
Bleeder Bottle
11mm Flare Wrench Buy Flare wrench
T20 torx
Screw Driver
10mm socket
Brake Fluid

Procedure:
1. Remove the lower cowling. This step isn’t necessary but it gives you more room, and allows the hose to sit cleaner.

  • 1. Remove the weather strip
  • 2. Unscrew the 2 torx bolts, one on either side of the cowling
  • 3. Undo the 4 clips across the top, using the screwdriver to pry them loose.
  • 4. Remove the 2 plastic grates, and undo the 10mm bolt.
  • 5. Underneith the cowling in the center is the Sound Symposer tube, remove that and pull out the lower cowling



2. Remove your airbox. Undo the rubber connector that connects the airbox to the intake pipe, and the rubber connector in the front of the airbox, that holds the 2 plastic hoses. Then pull the airbox out.

3. Fill the pressure bleeder with brake fluid. Put at least 500mls in, as you need to account for the fluid in the hose, and you don’t want the pump to pull in air.

4. Undo the cap to your reservoir, before attaching the pressure bleeder, I would pump it a litle bit to start pulling fluid into the line. Then connect it to the reservoir, making sure there is no leek.

5. Pressurize the pump to 10psi, don’t go over 15psi.

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6. Attach your Bleeder bottle to your slave reservoir bleeder. It is a black plastic bleeder located on top of your transmission, to the left of your shift linkage.

7. Open up the bleeder value using your flare wrench. NOTE: I had to open it up quite a bit for it to start bleeding.

8. Bleed about 80ml of fluid out, or until you don’t see any bubbles. Making sure to check the pressure on the bleeder, and the fluid in the hose/reservoir.

9. Close the bleeder screw. Making sure not to over tighten as it is plastic.

10. Leaving the Pressure Bleeder connected, wait about 30 seconds to a minute. Then get into the car and pump the clutch 5 times. Then make sure you can shift smoothly into each gear.

11. If the clutch feels good, remove the pressure bleeder, replace the airbox, and lower cowling.

DONE

Job Time 20-30 minutes

DIY Short Shifter

I found the stock shifter throw on the ST to be way to long. I added the Mountune Quick Shift, but that wasn’t enough. I didn’t want to spend the money on the FRPP shifter or the Boomba, so I tried my hand at making my own.
Completed:
DIY Short Shifter Finished
Shifter Side

Tools needed:
Tools
Hack Saw
Adjustable Wrench
Die – M12 x 1.25 Purchase link: Century Drill and Tool 97617 High Carbon Steel Metric Hexagon Die, 12.0 by 1.25
1 inch Wrench – You’ll want something large, that you can get good leverage out of
Permanent Marker
Masking/Painters Tape
Rags
Tape Measure
Optional: Hose clamp

Procedure:
First remove the shift knob and trim. The shift knob just unscrews (counter clockwise). The trim piece is held in by 4 clips. You can use a trim removal tool to pop it up or you can use your hands and pull up from inside the shift boot.
trim removal
2014-08-20 19.24.58

Then I used the tape and rags and wrapped them around the shift lever and the rest of the assembly. As you thread metal shaving will drop down, this is to help catch them.

Take your tape measure and measure down how far you want to shorten it. I choose to drop it by 1 inch. Then use the marker to make a line at that point, this will be your stop line.

NOTE: The stock threading is 1 inch, so if you are dropping it by an inch or more, you could change the threadings pitch to accommodate a different knob that wasn’t previously compatible with our car.

Next take the die and thread it onto the shifter and bring it down to the bottom.
2014-08-20 20.00.22
Get your adjustable wrench and clamp down on the black plastic portion of the lever. I held on right next to the shifter cable. This is to stabilize the lever and stop it from moving as you thread. My hand in the photo above is holding onto the wrench, which I have under the rags.

Take your 1 inch wrench and place it on the die and start twisting clockwise. Keep twisting until you hit your marker line. I found it helpful every once in a while to do a quarter turn counter-clockwise to release all the shavings. If it gets really hard to thread, back the die all the way off and clean out the threads, you can also spray some WD-40 or thread lube.

Once you hit your mark it is time to cut. Leave the die at the bottom. This way after the cut you can come back up your threads to correct the top, instead of having to start fresh at the top and try to make it line up with your threads.

Measure from the top down to how much you want to cut. This is where I used the hose clamp. Once I got the cut line location, I used the hose clamp to be a guide and marker to help me cut a straight line, though tape would also work here. I just happened to have an extra clamp lying around.

Take your hacksaw and cut. It can be a bit hard to get started as you are cutting through threads.
2014-08-20 20.10.42

My cut wasn’t perfectly straight as it ended up following the thread lines a bit. This turned out not to be an issue.

Take the die and go back up the threads, to the top. I didn’t go straight off. I went till the die was half way off, then went all the way back down and back up again. Just to ensure that the threads were clean.
2014-08-20 20.22.43
At this point you can check to see if your shift knob screws back on. If you did it correctly it should thread right on.

Next you need to shave off the little tab on the back side of the lever. This tab is a guide for the reverse lockout and a stopper for your shift boot top. With the lever being shorter this now gets in the way. (You can see by looking at your shift boot top and see the track that stops half way through. This tab catches and stops you from being able to drop all the way)

I took a dremil and ground it flat. If you don’t have a dremil a file will work.
2014-08-20 20.43.19
Almost done. Now it’s time to adjust the reverse lockout link. I got hold of a smaller one, like what you get with the boomba short shifter. If you don’t have one of those you can simply use a piece of wire to connect the two pieces. It doesn’t have to be rigid as the only action you are doing is lifting up, it will drop on it’s own with gravity and the spring, in the shift knob.
2014-08-20 20.43.43
Once that is done, put the shift reverse lockout, shift boot, and shift knob back on. Test that you can get into all the gears and the reverse lockout functions. If so, clip the trim piece back on and clean up.
Final Cut:
2014-08-20 20.58.04

Project completed.
Total time: 30min-1hour.

TSB 13-06-27 (Inoperative Instrument Panel Cluster(IPC))

Instrument Panel Cluster (IPC) Inoperative at start-up – Built on or before 2/6/2013

Ford: 2013-2013 Focus

ISSUE:
Some 2012-2013 Focus vehicles built on or before 2/6/2013 may exhibit an inoperative IPC on vehicle start-up

ACTION:
Follow the Service Procedure steps to correct the condition.

SERVICE PROCEDURE:
1. Connect the vehicle to a battery charger:
2. Connect Integrated Diagnostic System (IDS) and ensure the USB connection is secure.
a. Any Interruption during the reprogramming event will result in being forced to repeat procedure.
3. Is the vehicle currently exhibiting an inoperative IPC?
a Yes – restore IPC to normal operation by removing fuse number 69 from the body control module for one (1) minute and then reinstall fuse. Refer to Wiring Diagram, Section 11-1, page 3.
b. No -Proceed to Step 4.
4. Reprogram the IPC to the latest calibration using IDS release 85.02 and higher. Calibration files may also be obtained at www.motorcraft.com

WARRANTY STATUS:
Eligible Under Provisions of NEw Vehicle Limited Warranty Coverage And Emissions Warranty COverage
IMPORTANT: Warranty/ESP coverage limits/policies/prior to approvals are not altered by a TSB. Warranty/ESP coverage limits are determined by the identified causal part and verified using the OASIS part coverage tool.


Operation: Description: Time:
130627A 2012-2013 Focus: Restore IPC Operation if Necessary and reprogram the IPC (Do Not Use With Any Other Labor Operations) .4 Hrs

DEALER CODING:

Basic Part No. Condition COde:
10849 42

TSB 13-06-10 (bang noise under hard shift)

BANG NOISE HEARD AND/OR BUMP FELT FROM
FRONT OF VEHICLE DURING A QUICK 1-2 AND/OR
2-3 SHIFT—UNDER MODERATE TO AGGRESSIVE ACCELERATION TSB 13-6-10

FORD:
2013 Focus

ISSUE
Some 2013 Focus ST vehicles may exhibit a bang noise and/or bump felt from front of vehicle during a quick 1-2 and/or 2-3 shift under moderate to aggressive acceleration.

ACTION
Perform the Service Procedure steps to correct the condition.

SERVICE PROCEDURE
1. Raise the vehicle on a hoist. Refer to Workshop Manual (WSM), Section 100-02.
2. Remove the lower air deflector by removing the three (3) fasteners. (Figure 1)
3. Remove the engine compartment splash shield by removing the eight (8) fasteners. (Figure 1)
4. Lower the vehicle.
tsb1
5. Remove battery and battery tray. Refer to WSM, Section 414-01.
6. Position hydraulic floor jack with a wood block under transmission and raise only enough to support weight of transmission.
a. Do not attempt to lift the transmission or
damage will occur. Figure 1 – Article 13-6-10
7. Remove battery tray reinforcement by removing the four (4) fasteners. (Figure 2)
tsb2_3
8. Securing the transmission support insulator and remove the insulator.
Remove and discard the center fastener
9.Install revised service transmission support
insulator and torque new center fastener to 148
N•m (109 lb-ft).
10. Replace the clutch slave cylinder hydraulic tube
with revised service part. (Figure 3 – Item 12)
11. Bleed the clutch system. Refer to WSM,
Section 308-02, general procedures, 6 speed manual transmissions.
12. Remove floor jack.
13. Install battery tray reinforcement with the four (4) fasteners and torque to 48 N•m (35 lb-ft). (Figure 2)
14. Install battery and battery tray, refer to WSM, Section 414-01.
15. Replace engine mount with revised service part. Refer to WSM, Section 303-01B
16. Replace roll restrictor with revised service part. Refer to WSM, Section 308-03.
a. When installing the engine compartment splash shield and lower air deflector, do not over tighten the fasteners or threads may be damaged.

Part Number: Part Name:
CM5Z-6068-A Roll Restrictor
DV6Z-7A512-B Clutch Line PTL
DV6Z-6038-B Engine Mount
DV6Z-6068-A Transmission Mount
W500361-S442 Bolt – Transmission Mount
W716238-S442 Bolt – Roll Restrictor
PM-20 Motorcraft DOT 4 LV High
Performance Motor Vehicle Brake Fluid

WARRANTY STATUS: Eligible Under Provisions Of
New Vehicle Limited
Warranty Coverage
Warranty/ESP coverage
limits/policies/prior approvals are not altered by a TSB. Warranty/ESP coverage limits are determined by the identified causal part and verified using the OASIS part coverage tool.

Operation: Description: Time:
130610A 2013 Focus ST 2.0L GTDI:
Replace Mounts And
Clutch Hydraulic Cylinder
Tube Following The
Service Procedure (Do Not
Use With Any Other Labor
Operations)
1.8 Hrs

DEALER CODING
CONDITION
BASIC PART NO. CODE
6068 42
PAGE 3

TSB 13-08-02 (MYFordTouch)

MYFORD TOUCH/MYLINCOLN TOUCH-NAVIGATION/VOICE RECOGNITION/CALL SOUND QUALITY/PHONE PAIRING/CLOCK/MEDIA/WIFI PASS CODE AND/OR SYSTEM PERFORMANCE

Publication Date: August 5, 2013

FORD:
2012-2014 Focus
2013 C-MAX
2013-2014 Fusion, Taurus
2014 Fiesta
2011-2013 Edge
2011-2014 Explorer
2013 F-150
2013-2014 Escape, F-250, F-350, F-450, Flex
LINCOLN:
2013-2014 MKS, MKZ
2011-2013 MKX
2013-2014 MKT

ISSUE:
Some vehicles equipped with MyFord Touch/MyLincoln Touch may exhibit concerns with navigation, voice recognition, call sound quality, phone pairing, clock, media, WiFi pass code entry, and/or system performance.

ACTION:
Follow the Service Procedure steps to perform software update.

SERVICE PROCEDURE
Run OASIS using the Vehicle Identification Number (VIN). 2011-2013 vehicles with FSA 11A01, 12A04, or 13A01 open must be completed before this TSB can be performed. Performing this TSB on vehicles with these FSA’s open will result in undesired system performance issues.
The software update is also directly available to the customer by going to support.ford.com & support.lincoln.com web sites.
Software Download Procedure

This TSB will update the Consumer Interface Processor (CIP) to the latest (BD)/(13171) suffix level/software version V3.6. The software requires a one-time software download onto a USB flash drive. The software may be loaded on one or multiple USB flash drives. The USB flash drive(s) can then be used to update multiple vehicles following the Vehicle Software Install procedure.
Minimum 2 gigabyte (GB) USB flash drive is required. USB flash drives previously provided for FSA’s 11A02 and 11A03 are preferred for compatibility. Be sure to identify USB flash drives so the software level contained on the drive is known. This procedure will clear any saved data stored on the USB flash drive. Save any important data stored on the USB flash drive to another location prior to starting this procedure.
If you previously performed this TSB on a different vehicle and already have a USB flash drive loaded with this software update, proceed directly to the section for Vehicle Software Install.
Format USB flash drive:
Insert USB flash drive into computer.
From Windows start button or desktop select “My Computer”.
Right click on the “USB drive/temporary disk”.
Select “Format”.
Under File System select “FAT32”.
Under Allocation Unit Size select “Default allocation size”.
Under Format Options select “Quick Format”.
Select “start” to reformat.
Select “OK”, for pop-up warning, “Reformatting will erase all data stored on this disk”.
Close open pop-up windows once complete.
Click on the link provided to download the software update. A hard wired internet connection is recommended. A download pop-up will appear with selections to run, save, or cancel. V3.6/13171
Select “Save”.
A “Save-As” pop-up window will appear with a file named “Gen2v361build13171serviceNARev1.exe”. Choose a folder on your computer to save the file temporarily.
Select “Save”.
When the download complete pop-up appears select “Open folder”.
A file named “Gen2v361build13171serviceNARev1.exe” will be highlighted. Double click on the file.
A download warning may appear, if so, agree to continue by choosing “yes”, “Ok”, or “run”.
An extract pop-up window will appear. The extract destination to the USB flash drive will need to be selected. To browse for the USB flash drive, select the “button with three dots” located to the right of the pop-up.
Scroll down and select “computer”.
Select the “USB drive/removable disk”. USB flash drives previously provided for FSA 11A02 and 11A03 will be titled “SYNC”.
Select “Extract”.
Confirm USB flash drive contents. Select the USB flash drive located under My Computer. A folder named “SyncMyRide” and two files (autoinstall.lst and DONTINDX.msa) will be present on the USB flash drive; it’s now ready for the Vehicle Software Install procedure.
Vehicle Software Install

This installation procedure may take up to 30 minutes.
Remove any connected devices from the vehicle.
Start engine. Engine must be running so the battery saver mode will not activate while performing this procedure.
Place automatic transmission gear selector in “Park”. Manual transmission in neutral. Apply park brake on all vehicles.
For vehicles equipped with Automatic Engine Idle Shutdown (AEIS), this feature must be disabled through the left hand instrument cluster display to have uninterrupted reprogramming. Does the vehicle have AEIS?
No – Proceed to step 6.
Yes – Perform the following.
Select “Settings”
Select “Vehicle”
Locate the “Auto Engine Off” setting and select “Off”
Allow the system to boot up and the home screen to appear on the Front Display Interface Module (FDIM).
Install the USB flash drive into one of the vehicle’s media hub USB ports. Refer to Workshop Manual (WSM), Section 415-00. The reprogramming procedure will start automatically.
The installation procedure may cause the system to reboot several times and/or cause the screen to go dark/blank for a period of time. This is normal. The USB flash drive must remain installed at all times during programming.
When programming is complete “Installation Complete” will appear on the screen. Press “Ok” and remove the USB flash drive from the USB port.

WARRANTY STATUS:
Eligible Under Provisions Of New Vehicle Limited Warranty Coverage
IMPORTANT: Warranty/ESP coverage limits/policies/prior approvals are not altered by a TSB. Warranty/ESP coverage limits are determined by the identified causal part and verified using the OASIS part coverage tool.

OPERATION DESCRIPTION TIME 130802A Perform Reprogramming Of The APIM Using The USB Flash Drive (Do Not Use With Any Other Labor Operations) 0.3 DEALER CODING

BASIC PART NO. CONDITION CODE 14D212 04
NOTE: The information in Technical Service Bulletins is intended for use by trained, professional technicians with the knowledge, tools, and equipment to do the job properly and safely. It informs these technicians of conditions that may occur on some vehicles, or provides information that could assist in proper vehicle service. The procedures should not be performed by “do-it-yourselfers”. Do not assume that a condition described affects your car or truck. Contact a Ford or Lincoln dealership to determine whether the Bulletin applies to your vehicle. Warranty Policy and Extended Service Plan documentation determine Warranty and/or Extended Service Plan coverage unless stated otherwise in the TSB article. The information in this Technical Service Bulletin (TSB) was current at the time of printing. Ford Motor Company reserves the right to supercede this information with updates. The most recent information is available through Ford Motor Company’s on-line technical resources.
Copyright © 2013 Ford Motor Company

TSB 13-05-11 (cracking/crunching sound)

Crunching Or Creaking-Type Noise From Front of Vehicle -Low Speed Turns and Bumps

Ford:
2013-2013 Focus
2013 Escape

This article supersedes TSB 13-3-2 to update the Service Tabor Time Standards and Part List.

ISSUE
Some 2012-2013 FOcus vehicles built on or before 10/22/2012 and 2013 Escape vehicles built on or before 12/3/12 may exhibit a crunching or creaking-type noise from the front suspension on low speed turns and over bumps.

ACTION
Follow the Service Procedure steps to correct the condition.

SERVICE PROCEDURE
1. Attach Rotunda Wireless Chassis Ears (JSP97202) or quirvalent to each front spring near the top of the spring.
2. Road test vehicle by making right and left runs at low speed in an uneven parking lot attempting to duplicate the concern.
a. If the noise cannot be duplicated this article does not apply. Refer to Workshop Manual (WSM). Section 100-04 for normal diagnostics.
b. If the noise is duplicated, proceed to Step 3.
3. Replace the strut bearing on the side generating the noise only. Refer to WSM, Section 204-01.

Part Number: Part Name:
DV6Z-1898-A Strut Bearing
W715490-5442 Knuckle Bolt
W700212-5442 Strut Top Nut


Warranty Status:
Eligible Under Provisions Of New Vehicle Limited Warranty Coverage, Warranty/ESP coverage limits/policies/prior approvals are not altered by a TSB. Warranty/ESP coverage limits are determined by the identified causal part and verified using the OASIS part coverage tool.

Operation Description Time
130511A 2012-2013 Focus: Replace The Strut Bearing,
One(1) Side(Can Be Claimed WIth Operation C
In This Article) (Do Not Use WIth Any Labor
Operations Outside Of This Article)
1.4 Hrs.
130511A 2013 Escape: Replace The Strut Bearing,
One(1) Side(Can Be Claimed WIth Operation C
In This Article) (Do Not Use WIth Any Labor
Operations Outside Of This Article)
1.7 Hrs.
130511B 2013 Escape: Replace The Strut Bearing,
Both(2) Sides(Can Be Claimed WIth Operation C
In This Article) (Do Not Use WIth Any Labor
Operations Outside Of This Article)
2.3 Hrs.
130511B 2012-2013 Focus: Replace The Strut Bearing,
Both(2) Sides(Can Be Claimed WIth Operation C
In This Article) (Do Not Use WIth Any Labor
Operations Outside Of This Article)
2.0 Hrs.