Tag Archives: Focus ST

GarageLine Spacers

After Lowering my car with Eibach Pro-Kit springs(see review) I found it necessary to use spacers to remove the very apparent wheel inset. The Garageline spacers a priced very well and come in multiple sizes. I opted for a staggered set, running 15mm on the front and 20mm on the rear.
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garageline spacers

The design of the spacers, means you use the stock hub bolts and the supplied lug nuts to mount the spacers to the axle. You then mount your wheels to the spacers which have either own bolts, using your original lug nuts. This design makes for a simple bolt on upgrade.

Installation Notes
Make sure your hub is clean, as any debris can cause the spacers not to sit flush, thus they’ll wobble. Also, make sure that you properly torque each bolt on the spacer; I’ve had mine come loose. This leads to my main complaint. The supplied lug nuts have a tapered top and the size of the recessed hole makes it very tight to fit your socket in there. These two things combined make it hard to properly torque the bolts as the socket tends to slip off.
Some people have suggested using blue lock-tite on them. I have not tried this, but if they come loose again I will.

Eibach Pro-Kit Lowering Springs

One of the first upgrade I did to my car was springs. I purchased a set of Eibach Pro-Kit springs for my car 2014 Focus ST. What attracted me to these springs was the ride height drop, as this is my daily driver.

The kit lowers the car by 3/4 inch on the front and 1 inch at the back. This gets rid of a good amount of wheel well gap. It isn’t so low that you have to be concerned about space on wider tires and offsets. It did however accent the fact that our stock wheels have a very large offset, 55mm. To correct this I found it necessary to get spacers. The spacers made a huge difference, I’ve gotten way more comments on the look of the car since I’ve put them on. I am currently running GarageLine 15mm Spacers on the front and 20mm spacers on the Rear. Spacer Review

Without Spacers

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With Spacers

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With the modest drop of these springs it allows the car to be lowered but not to the point it became an inconvenience. I have no issues getting in an out of my driveway or going over speed bumps. The ride quality also did not become harsh, as the springs are progressive. This allows the springs to be soft to soak up the small bumps in the roads, but then get stiff quickly when the car starts to lean, such as in a corner. One of the main improvements with the springs is the reduction is nose and tail dive during hard braking or acceleration.
Autocrossing the car regularly the before an after spring install is huge. The car is much more stable under hard braking as the weight is not rolling around. The same goes for the corners. The car also does not have the inner wheel lift on hard corning that the stock springs have, allowing the car to be much more planted and stable.

The only issue I am having is the increased wear on my stock struts. This is due to aftermarket companies not making any struts for the 2014 model as it has a different spring perch on the front than the 2013’s.

How To Install Rotors Focus ST

Installing new rotors is a fairly quick and easy DIY job.

Tools Needed:
Lug nut tool, 19mm socket
7mm allen
13mm socket or wrench
c-clamp or caliper tool

Rear Specific Tools:
Screw in piston caliper tool

1. Remove the wheel.
2. On the front of the caliper there is a clip, that needs to be popped off.
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Clip Removed:
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3. Once this clip is removed there are 2 bolts on the back side of the caliper. They are covered in a black plastic clip. Pop the cap off and undo the two bolts, using a 7mm allen key.

REAR NOTE: I had to undo the rear sway bar and disconnect it from the end links to provide clearance to get the allen key in.

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4. This step is only if you are doing the back brakes, Undo the handbrake cable.

5. Then lift the caliper off and rest it somewhere. Don’t let the caliper hang by the hose.

6. Next you need to remove the brake pads and the mounting bracket. This is held on by two 13mm bolts.
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7. Once this is off you are free to remove the rotor. If it is stuck use a mallet to knock it loose.

8. Then clean the back of the new rotor with brake cleaner and place it on the axle.

9. Perform the steps in reverse to put the caliper back together.

10. You may have to use a c-clamp to push the caliper piston back out to provide clearance over the pads. NOTE FOR THE BACK: The rear piston is a screw in, so you’ll need a special tool.

11. Before putting the wheel back on clean the front of the rotor.

How to install stainless steel brake lines Focus ST

Installing the stainless steel brake lines is much easier than I thought it would be going into it. This job can be done with or without a lift, though it would be quicker on a lift. Procedure is almost identical between front and back.
I went with the Steeda lines as they are DOT certified unlike some other brands. Stoptech also make a great set.
1. Remove wheel.
2. Remove the clip that holds the line to the frame mount. The best way to remove this is with a screwdriver from the back side, pushing forward.
3. Unscrew the nut connecting the lines, using an 11mm wrench. Then separate the lines and cap the end. If a lot of fluid come out before you cap the end, make sure to check the reservoir so it doesn’t drop below min.
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NOTE: Photo is on the installation of the new lines, thus the clip is still on.
4. Next pull the line end out of the mount that holds it to the frame, and the rubber U clamp halfway down the line.
5. How you should have only one connection left, down on the caliper. Undo this bolt with a 14mm and pull the line out.
6. To install the new stainless line, perform the steps in reserve.

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How to Bleed The Clutch

This tutorial will show you how to bleed the clutch on your Ford Focus ST. This procedure should work on the Fiesta ST though the location of the bleed valve for the slave cylinder may be different.

What You’ll Need:
Pressure Bleeder Buy Motive Pressure Bleeder
Bleeder Bottle
11mm Flare Wrench Buy Flare wrench
T20 torx
Screw Driver
10mm socket
Brake Fluid

1. Remove the lower cowling. This step isn’t necessary but it gives you more room, and allows the hose to sit cleaner.

  • 1. Remove the weather strip
  • 2. Unscrew the 2 torx bolts, one on either side of the cowling
  • 3. Undo the 4 clips across the top, using the screwdriver to pry them loose.
  • 4. Remove the 2 plastic grates, and undo the 10mm bolt.
  • 5. Underneith the cowling in the center is the Sound Symposer tube, remove that and pull out the lower cowling

2. Remove your airbox. Undo the rubber connector that connects the airbox to the intake pipe, and the rubber connector in the front of the airbox, that holds the 2 plastic hoses. Then pull the airbox out.

3. Fill the pressure bleeder with brake fluid. Put at least 500mls in, as you need to account for the fluid in the hose, and you don’t want the pump to pull in air.

4. Undo the cap to your reservoir, before attaching the pressure bleeder, I would pump it a litle bit to start pulling fluid into the line. Then connect it to the reservoir, making sure there is no leek.

5. Pressurize the pump to 10psi, don’t go over 15psi.

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6. Attach your Bleeder bottle to your slave reservoir bleeder. It is a black plastic bleeder located on top of your transmission, to the left of your shift linkage.

7. Open up the bleeder value using your flare wrench. NOTE: I had to open it up quite a bit for it to start bleeding.

8. Bleed about 80ml of fluid out, or until you don’t see any bubbles. Making sure to check the pressure on the bleeder, and the fluid in the hose/reservoir.

9. Close the bleeder screw. Making sure not to over tighten as it is plastic.

10. Leaving the Pressure Bleeder connected, wait about 30 seconds to a minute. Then get into the car and pump the clutch 5 times. Then make sure you can shift smoothly into each gear.

11. If the clutch feels good, remove the pressure bleeder, replace the airbox, and lower cowling.


Job Time 20-30 minutes