Tag Archives: ST

Focus ST Intake Manifold Removal How-To

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The purpose of this guide, is to provide you with a step by step detailed guide on how to remove the intake manifold off of a 13-16 Ford Focus ST.

Tools:

10mm socket

Matching Ratchet

Socket extension, preferably 6 inch

Flat head screwdriver or 8mm socket.

 

Terminology Reference Guide:

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Procedure:

  1. Using the 10mm socket and extension, unbolt the 5 bolts in-between the intake runners that connect the manifold to the head.   2 of the bolts you can’t see in this photo, they are on the back side of the runners.2015-10-31 141.59.44

2. Now you want to remove the 2 electrical clips on the left side of the manifold(passenger side).

The first clip on on the front of the manifold.  Pictured below.

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The next clip is located on the back side of the manifold, it isn’t connected to the manifold, but the fuel rail. To find this one, you can follow the cable from the first clip you undid, as they are on the same cable.

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Here is that same clip from a different angle.

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With those 2 clips undone, untangle the wire from the hard plastic cable going across it, and move it out of the way. Cable looks like this once removed.

2015-10-31 15.02.50NOTE: when reconnecting the Orange clip goes into the back, and the Gray clips into the front of the manifold.

3.  Undo the clips holding the hard line across the manifold. After removing the clips, maneuver the hose back and out of the way.

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4. Remove the 2 slide on clips on the back side of the manifold, One on the left side and one on the right side.

Clip on the Driver Side:

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Clip on Passenger Side:

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NOTE: these clips can be a bit tricky to remove. They remove by being slid out, away from the engine. You are not uncliping the clip. The clip/wire is mounted to the back of the manifold, you are removing the mount so the clip and wire, can hang loose. The best way to remove these is to hold onto the clip, and try to keep it flat as you pull it straight out.

5. Remove the Cold Charge pipe coupler from the manifold.  Using your screw driver or 8mm socket, loosen this hose clamp. You get to it from the Driver side of the manifold, located just below the sound symposer. Loosen this up quite a bit, but without separating the clamp.

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6. Lift the intake manifold out of the car.  The throttle body has ridges on it, to ensure a good seal to the hose, so it can be hard to remove. To pull it out, you want to reach down on the driver side of the manifold and take a hold of the charge pipe. Then pull up on the manifold, while pulling down on the charge pipe. It may help to wiggle the manifold back and forth.  Once it comes out do not continue to pull, as there are 2 more clips that need to be removed first.

7.  Unclip the PCV hose from the manifold. I missed taking a photo of this step, but it is a large clip on the lower back side of the manifold.

8. Remove the clip on the bottom of the throttle body. This can be a bit tricky as you have to this by feel.  This clip has a lock on it. Follow the wire to the clip, then on the bottom of the clip, you’ll feel a little tab, this slides out, towards the wire, this unlocks the clip. Then you can unclip it.

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Here is a photo of the clip removed. The focus of this is to show what the lock tab looks like. This is how it looks when it is unlocked. Sorry it is a bit blurry.2015-10-31 15.12.11

9. Lift the Manifold out.

At this point the manifold will be free except for 1 clip. This last clip is the green one, located on a hard plastic hose on the Passenger side. I do not remove this one, when removing the intake manifold, because the length of hose is long enough that you can place the manifold on your intake or fuse box, bringing it out of the way.

If you do need to remove it, be careful. It is a very easy clip to break. Here’s how you remove it. Again sorry it’s a bit blurry.

Using a small flat head screwdriver, lift the green plastic up on the sides.   Lift up on both sides where the arrows. are. You don’t remove the clip entirely, just lift it up, and slide up. The clip, if you look at, is like a horseshoe. 

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Looks something like this. Note my awesome paint skills 🙂Untitled

If you break one side, don’t worry about it. Plenty of people have broken one side, and haven’t had any issues.

 

To reinstall, please reform these steps in reverse.

When on the last step, and it comes to bolting the manifold back to the head, you want to start with the middle bolt then work your way out, going side to side. For example: 2015-10-31 141.59.44

TORQUE SPECS: 14.75ft/lbs

Moroso Oil Catch Can Install PCV Side (STAGE 2)

Parts List

(1) Air Oil Separator
(1) Billet Clamp Saddle
(1) Billet Clamp
(1) Stainless Steel Mounting Bracket
(2) Lengths of 3/8” Hose
(1) Square Washer
(1) ¼” Flat Washer
(1) 10-24 x ¾” SHCS
(1) 10-24 Lock Nut
(4) ¼-20 x 5/8” SHCS
(2) Hose Clamps
(2) 90 Degree Barbed Fittings

What you will need:
¼” Ratchet
¼” Extension, 12” long
¼” Extension, 4” long
7mm Socket
8mm Socket
11mm Socket
#30 Torx Bit
11mm Closed End Wrench
Long Flat Head Screwdriver
Jack, Jack Stands or ramps (Stands will give you more room)
Sharp Scissors or Sharp Razor Knife
Teflon Tape

Procedure:

Step 1: Jack up front of vehicle and place on jack stands. Remove belly pan. This step is not necessary, just makes it easier should you drop anything

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Step 3: Remove engine cover.

Step 4: Remove intake from vehicle referring to shop manual as needed.
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The green clips are VERY fragile. Be careful not to break them.
Disconnect the map sensor. Loosen top clamp that secures the intercooler piping to the throttle body. Remove the sound symposer pipe.

*Note: Depending on how the clamp is positioned, you may have to loosen it from the bottom of the car.

Remove the 5 bolts that secure the manifold to the head using a 10mm socket. Disconnect the EVAP line from the retaining clips.
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Move the connector for the MAP sensor over to the left, towards the coolant reservoir so it’s out of the way. Pull the whole intake manifold a few inches towards the radiator, away from the head.

Remove the two connectors that are retained to the back of the manifold. There should be one on each side. Remove the PCV hose from the back of the manifold. Use both hands to reach around the backside of the manifold and use your thumbs to press in on the rigid area and then push the connector away from the manifold to remove it.

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Pull the manifold up off of the intercooler piping. It should move somewhat freely now, but you still have two more things to disconnect. Remove the throttle body connector.

Pull the manifold out enough that you can access the connector for the EVAP line. The EVAP connector has two green clips that holds the connector into place. Be VERY careful not to break the clips while removing. After the clips are removed, pull the EVAP line off and set it to the side. Pull the manifold completely out.



^^^ That’s what happens when you’re not careful with removing the clips.

Step 5: Locate and remove PCV assembly from vehicle.

Optionally you can try and simply use a razor blade to cut the hose off of the PCV valve.
(The orange/green connection in the pic)

Step 6: Carefully cut PCV valve from tube. Optionally you can keep the PCV in the car


Step 9: Install hose with clamp as shown. Optionally you can keep the PCV in the car

Step 11: Route hose over to driver’s side of vehicle.

Step 12: Insert barbed fitting into hose with hose clamp.
That fitting is from the backside of the manifold.

Step 13: Reinstall to intake.

Step 14: Reinstall intake.

Step 15: Assemble Air Oil Separator as shown using Teflon Tape on barbed fittings.

As far as mounting goes it can be anywhere that you want it. I recommend somewhere that you can reach your hand easily, and are able to twist the can open. The best place I’ve found is where the symposer used to mount to the battery box, but if you have access to scrap metal or angle iron you can make a
bracket yourself.

Step 16: Assemble billet saddle to stainless steel mounting bracket using (1) 1/4x20x5/8 SHCS, assemble with relief groove facing down.


Step 17: Locate slots in firewall shown on passenger’s side of vehicle.

Step 18: Install ¼-20×5/8 SHCS with washer, thru slot #1 (in firewall) and stainless steel bracket, into billet clamp saddle.

Step 19: Install 10-24×3/4 SHCS thru stainless steel bracket and slot # 2. Install square washer and lock nut , tighten.

Step 20: Insert (2) ¼-20×5/8 SHCS into billet clamp.

Step 21: Install Air Oil Separator with barbed fittings facing front of vehicle, set height @ 1” to 1 1/8” as shown.

Step 22: Route 3/8” hose as shown and wire tie as needed.

Step 23: Install hose to Air Oil Separator.

Step 24: Re-install engine cover.

Step 25: Re-install belly pan.

Installation Complete

Maintenance:
Draining of Air Oil Separator is needed; this will depend on driving conditions (i.e.) normal day to day driving check every 1,000 miles until a baseline is established. A good baseline is to drain the Air Oil Separator when it is about HALF full. This will vary with temperatures (cold winters vs. hot summers). For track usage Air Oil Separator will need to be drained after every outing.

Thanks to Moroso for providing the initial instructions. These have been modified slightly as we felt some of the steps were unnecessary.

For Technical Assistance, call Moroso’s Tech Line
(203)-458-0542, 8:30am-5:00pm Eastern Time
MOROSO PERFORMANCE PRODUCTS, INC.
80 CARTER DRIVEGUILFORD, CT 06437
www.moroso.com

Stacy

2014 Focus ST, Performance Blue, ST3 Package

The car is still a work in progress. My next agenda is aesthetics It is currently my daily driver, so some of the mods are dialed towards the everyday driver aspect. I partake in autocross on the weekends, though Capital Driving Club (see our events page for a list of their events).

Recent Awards:

Carlisle 2015 – Focus Rising Judges awarded Best 2013+ Focus ST
Custom Performance Engineering Car Show – Viewers Choice Best Car

Engine Mangement:

Cobb AccessPort V3
Tune by Stratified Automotive 93 Octane and E30

Engine:

GTX 2860R Turbo .64 A/R
Tial MVR 38mm External Wastegate (EWG)
Speed Perf6rmanc3 Auxiliary Fuel Rail
Custom 38mm EWG dump tube
Custom Carbon Fiber Intake
Velossa Tech Racing Snorkel
MBRP Charge Pipe Set
Cp-E 5.5″ Core FMIC
Tial Q BOV
CP-E Stage 2 Rear Motor Mount (RMM)
CP-E 70a Durometer Transmission Side Upper Motor Mount (TSMM)
Damond Motorsports Passenger Side Upper Motor Mount (PSMM)
Damond Motorsports PCV Side Oil Catch Can (OCC)
NGK LTR71X-11 Spark Plugs
JLT intake side Oil Catch Can (OCC)
Breedt Ported Symposer Delete
Custom Painted Engine Cover
Custom Painted Battery and Fuse Box

Transmission:

MFactory Helical LSD
SPEC Stage 3+ Clutch for OEM Flywheel
Boomba Short Shifter
Mountune Shift Arm
Boomba Racing Shifter Base Bushings
Boomba Racing Trans, Cable Bushings
Needless Torque Calibrations Shift Cable Bushing
Motul Multi DCTF Transmission Fluid

Exhaust:

Catted MBRP Downpipe
FSWerks Stealth Catback Exhaust
Cobb Exhaust Hangers

Brakes:

Willwood FBDL4 Front
BP10 Brake Pads Front
TCE Stainless Steel Lines Front
Hawk HPS Pads Rear
Steeda Stainless Steel Lines Rear
StopTech Slotted Rotor Front and Rear
ATE 706202 Original TYP 200 Brake Fluid(Super Blue)

Suspension:

KW v3 Coilovers
Eibach Adjustable Rear Sway Bar
SPC Adjustable Rear Camber Arms
Steeda Adjustable Rear Toe Arms
DIY Adjustable Rear Endlinks
Massive Adjustable Front End Links
TB Performance Traction Bar
TB Performance Front Strut Bar
TB Performance Mid Brace

External:

Forgestar F14 Wheels in 18×9 et 48
Michelin Pilot Super Sports in 255/35/18 Tires
Team Dynamics Pro Race 1.2 in 17×9 et 45
Bridgestone Potenza RE-71R Autocross Tires
Sparco Assetto Gara in 18×8
Hankook i*ecpt evo W310 in 235/40/18 Snow Tires
3M Color Safe tint 35%

Llumar Air 80 front windshield tinting
Blue LED puddle Lamps
Maxton Design UK Front Splitter
Maxton Design UK Side Skirts
Maxton Design UK Rear Diffuser
Maxton Design UK Wing Extension
The Lighting Firm Halo Fog Lights
Custom Grill

Internal:

Carbon Fiber Vinal wrap
BozBros Performance Custom Shift Knob
RedlineGoods Custom Arm Rest Cover
RedlineGoods Custom Shift Boot
RedlineGoods Custom Door Inserts
Steeda Aluminum Dead Pedal

Misc:

Black Box Stealth Dash Cam
Breedt Accelerator Pedal Mount